Home / Men / Jackets / #6121 Jacket with yoke
Difficulty: ***
You will need: whipcord; lining (jersey, fleece); warmer; fusing; 1 separable zipper (depending on front length including stand-up collar length); 2 zipper (depending on pocket length); trimming cord; elastic braid of 5.5 cm (2-1/8") width for waistband; elastic braid of 4.5 cm (1-6/8") for cuffs.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Front part - 2 pieces
2. Back part - 1 piece
3. Back yoke - 1 piece
4. Front yoke - 2 pieces
5. Side part - 4 pieces
6. Sleeve center part - 2 pieces
7. Sleeve side part - 4 pieces
8. Collar - 2 pieces
9. Cuff - 2 pieces
10. Front facing - 2 pieces
11. Waistband - 1 piece
12. Waistband placket - 2 pieces
13. Large pocket bag - 2 pieces
14. Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
15. Off-set welt - 2 pieces
Cut bias 2 fabric stripes of 3.5 cm (1-3/8") width for trimming. Stripes' length depends on trimming's length.
NB! After trimming is ready, there must remain seam allowance of 1 cm (3/8"). Otherwise, one must regulate width of cut stripes self.
Lining:
1. Front part - 2 pieces
2. Back part - 1 piece
3. Sleeve - 2 pieces
Warmer:
Topstitch the warmer along contour of outer collar details cut of warmer (1 piece) and waistband placket.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of off-set welt, press it along the center. Apply the fusing to pocket place. Mark a line determining ready welt's width on the welt. Lay the welt on right side of front part coinciding pocket marking lining and line on welt. Welt's outer side must coincide with right side of side front part. Stitch the welt. Cut pocket entrance between marking lines diagonally towards pocket marking's corners. Turn the welt wrong side out. Press seam allowances apart. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance. Stitch the zipper at 0.1 cm (1/16") from pocket entrance on front part's right side. Stitch small pocket bag to zipper's lower braid, then fold it under. Stitch large pocket bag to zipper's upper braid. Stitch pocket bags' edges. Pocket bags' edges must enter into seam joining the zipper and the seam joining the waistband.
2. Stitch stripes together, press seams. Fold ready stripe along the center, insert the cord and make a stitch along cord contour's.
3. Stitch side parts to back part and to font parts. Stitch sleeve side parts to side back/front parts along armholes. Stitch shoulder edges together. Topstitch shoulder seam at back part. Stitch sleeves/yoke center parts together. Stitch the yoke to back/front parts joining sleeves' center/side parts and making a trim. Topstitch the seam joining the yoke. Topstitch seams joining sleeves along armholes. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams. Stitch outer collar into neckline. Topstitch the trimming along outer collar's fall.
4. Press inner edge of front facing into wrong side and topstitch front facing on front part's lining. Stitch jacket's lining. Stitch lining details together leaving a hole in a sleeve's seam unstitched. Stitch inner collar into lining neckline.
5. Stitch cuffs and elastic braid into rings separately. Insert elastic braid into cuffs, stretch it to cuff's length and make 2 decorative stitches. For manufacture stitching, first fix elastic braid into cuffs, and then stitch them into a ring. Stitch cuffs to sleeve catching elastic braid's edge into the seam.
6. Fix elastic braid into waistband with 2 decorative stitches. Stitch waistband placket to waistband. Stitch the waistband to jacket. Fix waistband plackets on front part's lining.
7. Lay one part of zipper on edging right sides together (directing teeth from edging). Overstitch edgings and collar edges with lining inserting the zipper. Turn the garment right side out.
8. Stitch the lining to cuffs and to waistband, sew the hole in a sleeve.
9. Topstitch edgings and the collar.
10. Press ready jacket.