Home / Men / Jackets / #6067 Black jacket
Difficulty: ***
You will need: fabric suitable for suits, lining, fusing, 4 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Side part – 2 pieces
3. Flap – 4 pieces
4. Pocket bag – 2 pieces
5. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
6. Off-set welt – 1 piece
7. Upper pocket bag – 1 piece
8. Lower edging – 2 pieces
9. Front insert – 2 pieces
10. Front part – 2 pieces
11. Collar – 1 piece
12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back part – 2 pieces
2. Side part – 2 pieces
3. Pocket bag – 2 pieces
4. Upper pocket bag – 1 piece
5. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Front lining – 2 pieces
Fusing: front part, flap, facing, off-set welt, collar, front insert, lower edging.
Instructions:
1. Apply fusing to wrong side of front part, flap, facing, off-set welt, collar, front insert, lower edging front part, flap, facing, off-set welt, collar, front insert, lower edging.
2. Stitch front darts.
3. Cut slit pocket with welt into left front part: press welts along the center right side out. Apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to wrong side of pocket slit. Press the welt along the center wrong side out. Lay off-set welt and one of pocket bags on front part’s right side, right sides together, so that edges meet, and stitch. Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Fold facings into wrong side through the slit, press the welt towards pocket entrance. Stitch another facing to wrong side to welt allowance. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut pocket bags, adjust, and stitch them together.
4. Stitch side part to front part.
5. Lay flaps right sides together, stitch them along outer edges, turn them right side out and press. Press facings along the center wrong side out. Lay the flap on upper facing, right sides together. Stitch facings on front part’s right side right sides together according to marks. Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Fold facings into wrong side making a neat frame. Stitch pocket bags on wrong side to facing allowances. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut pocket bags, adjust, and stitch them together.
6. Stitch middle back seam. Stitch back bulk seam downward to vent, press allowances backwards. Fold vent left allowance into garment right side, stitch along hem line, turn it right side out and press. Topstitch vent left edge. Fold the turndown of vent right edge into garment right side, stitch it along vent’s allowance edge, turn right side out and press it. Press the vent towards the side part and make diagonal fixing stitch along vent’s top. Press hem allowance into wrong side.
7. Stitch shoulder seams.
8. Stitch upper sleeve to lower sleeve. Stitch sleeves into armholes. Press hem allowance into wrong side. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Lay lower edgings right sides together and stitch them together along outer/lower edges. Turn them right side out and press. Stitch together lower edges, front inserts and the collar.
10. Stitch lining details together. Tack the lining to the jacket wrong sides together, fold lining hem allowance and sleeve hems under and sew to the garment.
11. Insert edging and neckline edge between stitch edging and the collar, them stitch together.
12. Make buttonholes into left front part, sew buttons on right one and on sleeves.