Home / Men / Coats / #6014 Coat
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends
You will need: Herringbone wool fabric; lining fabric dyed-to-match; fusible interfacing; 3 buttons 2.5 cm (1'') in diameter; 2 buttons 1.5 cm (5/8'') in diameter.
Cutting:
Shell:
Sleeve Tab - 2 pieces
Back - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
Pocket - 2 pieces
Front - 2 pieces
Lower Collar - 1 piece
Collar Stand - 2 pieces
Upper Collar - 1 piece
Lining:
Back - 2 pieces (use pattern for shell, adding 2 cm (3/4'') deep pleat at center back, for ease)
Front - 2 pieces (with Front Facing area excluded)
Pocket - 2 pieces (shortened by 3 cm (1-3/16'') at top edge)
Following pieces without any changes:
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
Sleeve Tab - 2 pieces
Shorten assembled lining at bottom hem by 2 cm.
Fusible Interfacing: Fronts, Lower Collar, Collar Stands, Pockets, Bottom hem allowances, Pocket Flaps of shell.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Fronts, Lower Collar, Collar Stands, Pockets, Bottom hem allowances, Pocket Flaps of shell with fusible interfacing.
2. Sew Pocket of lining to top edge of shell Pocket. Turn out, press finished edge and topstitch it at 1.5 cm (5/8''). Baste raw edges of shell and lining together.
3. Turn under and press raw edges of Pockets. Mark Pockets placement at Fronts. Apply a Pocket onto Front and hand-sew Pocket to Front at the edge of Pocket with invisible stitches. Topstitch Pocket onto Front at 1.5 cm (5/8'') at sides and bottom.
4. Line up Flaps of shell and lining, face-to-face, and stitch together at sides and bottom. Clip allowances. Turn out the Flap; press finished edges. Topstitch the Flap along finished edges at 1.5 cm (5/8'').
5. Pin the Flap, directed upward, onto Front as per pattern marks; stitch on. Turn the Flap down and topstitch at the previous seam, 1.5 cm (5/8”) from the seam of attaching Flap to Front.
6. Sew Back pieces together at center back seam, down to the back vent. Press allowances towards left Back. Topstitch center back seam at 1.5 cm (5/8”).
7. Turn left extended vent facing (left Back) to the face side (face sides together). Stitch at hemline across the vent facing. Turn out, press. Topstitch vent along center back at 1.5 cm. Turn right hem allowance to the face side (right Back); stitch vertically along the raw edge of right extended back vent (hem allowance to vent), turn out and press. Fold the vent towards the left Back. Pin vent’s sides to match. Stitch on top of left Back to fix the vent, according to pattern marking.
8. Sew side seams.
9. Sew under-sleeve seam of Front and Back Sleeve pieces.
10. Sew Sleeves into armholes.
11. Line up Sleeve Tabs of shell and lining, face-to-face, and stitch together at two long sides and chevron-like end, leaving one short end open. Clip allowances. Turn out the Tab; press finished edges. Turn inside allowances at open end; press. Topstitch the Tab along finished edges at 1.5 cm (5/8”).
Apply Sleeve Tabs onto face side of each Sleeve at marks (see pattern), baste together raw edges.
12. Sew shoulder seam, attaching Sleeve Tabs.
13. Sew one piece of Collar Stand to Upper Collar; another Stand, to Lower Collar. Press seams’ allowances open. Edgestitch at both sides of each Stand/Collar seam.
14. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of coat. Sew Upper Collar to Front Facings.
15. Line up Upper Collar (with Front Facings) with the garment, face sides together, matching the edges, and stitch at front edges and Collar. Turn out to the face side. From the wrong side, stitch together allowances of Upper and Lower Collars.
16. Topstitch finished edges of Collar and front edges at 1.5 cm from the edge.
17. Turn under hem allowance.
18. Assemble lining. Fold a vertical pleat for ease, and staystitch it at neckline edge, and an inch above the bottom hem. Assemble pieces of lining similar to shell, leaving an opening about 20 cm (8”) in the elbow seam of right Sleeve. Insert lining into shell face sides together, matching at center back line and shoulder seams. Stitch lining to shell at Front Facings and neckline. Fold a horizontal pleat along the bottom (for ease) and stitch raw edge of lining at bottom to bottom hem of coat. Sew lining to fold of Back vent of right Back. Sew lining to edge of left Back, clipping lining allowance in corner. Stitch down the opening.
19. Topstitch bottom edge at 1.5 cm.
20. Mark placement of buttonholes at the left Front. Work buttonholes into the Front. Sew buttons to the right Front accordingly. Sew buttons to Sleeve Tabs.