Home / Girls / Dresses / #7027 Dress with Fly Pockets
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: woolen or blended fabrics suitable for dresses.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: Red woolen plaid flannel; 10 cm (4”) of fusible interfacing 60 cm (24”); 30 cm (12”) of elastic tape 2 cm (6/8”) wide; 7 red buttons 12 mm (1/2”) in diameter.
Cutting:
Shell Fabric:
Front - 2 pieces
Back - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Stand Collar - 2 pieces
Outer Pocket Part - 2 pieces
Inner Pocket Part - 2 pieces
Front and Back skirt Panel - 2 pieces
Cuff - 2 pieces
Sleeve Vent Facing - 2 pieces
Straps for Fly Pocket - 4 pieces
Fusible Interfacing is fused to outer Collar Stand and half-width of each Cuff.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing outer Collar Stand (1 piece) and half-width of each Cuff. To reinforce, place a cut-out piece of interfacing glued side onto wrong side of corresponding piece of shell fabric and press with hot iron, preferably, through a cotton cloth.
2. Sew shoulder seams of top, serge allowances, press them towards Back and topstitch.
3. Make a cut for sleeve vent at each sleeve. Trim each sleeve vent with Sleeve Vent Facing. For that purpose, pin Facing at the sleeve cut and stitch at the very edge. Clip the fabric down to the seam at the top of vent. Turn the Facing over the raw edges, creating a piping. Turn under raw edge of piping and baste all layers together. Topstitch the Facing into the ditch of seam of its attaching.
Sew each Sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Serge allowances, press them towards armhole and topstitch.
4. Sew underarm seam of Sleeve and side seam of top at one go. Serge allowances.
5. Staystitch at bottom allowance of Sleeve with long machine-stitches. Pull threads to create gathers at Sleeve bottom to match in length with Cuff. Assemble Cuffs. Fold the Cuff lengthwise in half, stitch down short ends of Cuff. Turn out Cuffs to the face side. Match face sides of bottom of Sleeve and reinforced half of Cuff (face-to-face sides), and stitch together at Sleeve bottom. Turn the seam allowances inside the Cuff. Turn under raw edge of non-reinforced half of Cuff, press. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam. Proceed with topstitching all around the Cuff perimeter.
6. Turn extended Front Facing out to the face side of garment; stitch down short ends at neckline, turn out and press the neckline corners. Turn under raw edge of extended Front Facing and topstitch it onto the Front.
7. Place Collar pieces face-to-face, stitch around outer edges, turn out and press.
8. Place Collar directed downwards, into neckline at the face side of garment, matching the notches. Pin and sew only outer half (reinforced) of Collar to the neckline. Turn under and press raw edge of non-reinforced half of Collar and stitch it to the neckline.
9. Topstitch all around outer edges of Collar, as well as front edges of dress.
10. Lay right Front onto left Front at center front, staystitch Fronts at bottom edges.
11. Turn under and press top allowance of Outer Pocket, turn under raw edge and topstitch to form a tunnel for elastic.
12. Cut elastic in half. Pull elastic through the tunnel of Outer Pocket and bartack ends of elastic.
13. Turn under and press top allowance of Inner Pocket, turn under raw edge and topstitch.
14. Fold each Strap for Fly Pocket lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at the long edges. Turn out, press and topstitch along the edges.
15. Place Outer and Inner Pockets face-to-face, stitch around raw edges, turn out, press. Make a double-topstitching around the curve of the Pocket, inserting Straps for Fly Pocket between two Pocket layers at top of each pocket. Bartack Straps at top of pocket with an additional stitching.
16. Sew side seams of skirt; serge allowances.
17. Turn under bottom hem allowance, press. Turn under raw edge and topstitch.
18. Staystitch at the top allowance of skirt with long machine-stitches. Pull ends of thread to make gathers to match the length of top at waist. Pin skirt to top at waist, inserting Straps with Fly Pockets on them in between top and skirt as per pattern markings. Stitch the waist seam; serge seam allowances.
19. Make buttonholes into right Front, Outer Pocket and Cuffs as per pattern. Sew buttons accordingly.