Home / Boys / Others / #7008 Padded Overall
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: cotton blends with water-resistant coating
You will need: raincoat-type fabric for shell; printed cotton flannel for lining (pre-washed for shrinkage); polyfill warmer; 1 separating zipper (be careful in determining zipper length in pattern: zipper starts at horizontal seam of Back and ends at Hood tunnel for cord), 8 eyelets; cord for Hood and for waist tunnel (refer to pattern for cord consumption).
Note: You can skip cord and 2 eyelets of Hood, if you feel that the cord may be of any danger to your child’s safety!
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
Front - 2 pieces
Yoke - 1 piece
Back - 1 piece
Back Facing - 2 pieces
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Small Front Part - 2 pieces
Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Sleeve Left Small Part - 2 pieces
Sleeve Right Small Part - 2 pieces
Top Back of Pants - 2 pieces
Bottom Back of Pants - 2 pieces
Top Front of Pants - 2 pieces
Bottom Front of Pants - 2 pieces
Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
Side Hood - 2 pieces
Center Hood - 1 pieces
Lining:
Front - 2 pieces
Back - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Side Hood - 2 pieces
Center Hood - 1 piece
Pocket Bag - 4 pieces
Top Back and Bottom Back of Pants combined into one – 2 pieces
Top Front and Bottom Front combined into one – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing:
Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
Pocket Reinforcement stripe - 2 pieces
Polyfill:
Apply polyfill pieces to the wrong side of lining pieces, Staystitch at seam allowances.
Front - 2 pieces
Back - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Side Hood - 2 pieces
Center Hood - 1 piece
Instructions:
1. Assemble Welted Pockets at Top Fronts of Pants. Reinforce Pocket Facing with fusible interfacing. Stitch Pocket Facing to the top edge of Pocket Bag. Press seam allowances open. Fold Pocket Welt lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press. At the wrong side of Top Front of Pants, fuse a reinforcing stripe of interfacing. At the face side, Place Pocket Welt and Pocket Bag onto Front, face-to-face, matching raw edges of Welt and Pocket Bag with the line of pocket entrance. Place Pocket Bag with Pocket Facing sewn to it at the other side of pocket entrance. pin both Pocket Bags to Top Front of Pants along pocket entrance.
Stitch Pocket Bags to Front with two parallel seams along pocket entrance. Cut pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Be careful not to cut through the Welt and Pocket Bags! Turn Welt ends and both Pocket Bags inside the garment. Press seam allowances open. At the face side, topstitch the seam of attaching Welt; don’t let upper Pocket Bag get in the way of your topstitching. Topstitch the seam of attaching upper Pocket Bag (the one with Pocket Facing). Turn to the wrong side small triangles at the ends of pocket entrance, and stitch them onto Pocket Bags, along with ends of Welt, between the two parallel seams. Trim Pocket Bags to fit each other, and stitch them to each other. At the face side, topstitch Pocket Welt at the short sides onto Front.
2. Sew together Top Front of Pants and Bottom Front of Pants. Press allowances towards Top Front. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16”). Sew together Top Back of Pants and Bottom Back of Pants. Press allowances towards Top Front. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16”). Sew side seams and inseams of pants.
3. Sew Yoke to Back. Sew shoulder seams of Yoke and Fronts. Press all seam allowances towards Yoke. Topstitch the seams at 0.5 cm.
4. Sew each Small Front Part to Front. Press allowances towards Front. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm
5. Mark eyelets placement at Sleeve Small Parts (refer to pattern). Install eyelets into Left and Right Sleeve Small Parts. Sew Sleeve Small Parts to Sleeves. Press allowances towards Sleeve. Topstitch at 0.5 cm.
6. Sew each Sleeve into the open armhole, matching the notches. Press armhole seam allowances towards Back and Front. Topstitch armhole at 0.5 cm.
7. Sew side seams of top (Front and Back), and under-sleeve seams at one go. Press allowances open, clip them where necessary.
8. Waist tunnel for drawcord. Mark eyelets placement at Small Front Parts as per pattern. Install eyelets. Sew side seams of Front Facings and Back Facing. Press allowances open. Place Facings to the bottom edge of Front/Back face-to-face, aligning raw edges, and stitch together. Turn the Facings to the wrong side, press and topstitch the seam. Turn under and press allowances of “corner” at Back, topstitch at 0.5 cm.
9. Place pants (bottom) underneath top, aligning raw edges of Facings and pants; baste. Topstitch at Fronts and Back to create a tunnel for drawcord, fastening bottom (pants) to top at the same time.
10. Mark and install eyelets at Side Hood parts (optional). Sew Center Hood to Side Hood parts. Press allowances towards Center Hood, topstitch at 0.5 cm. Sew Hood into Neckline of garment.
11. Assemble LINING.
Sew shoulder seams. (*allowances should be pressed similar to shell). Sew Sleeves into open armholes, matching the notches.
Sew side seams and under-sleeve seams at the same time. Sew inseams of pants. Sew seams of Hood lining. Sew Hood into neckline of lining.
12. Place lining onto shell face-to-face, baste and stitch together front edges of Hood. Turn out the garment to the face side. Press the seam.
13. Sew-in zipper. Turn under and baste allowances of shell and lining at center front edges. Insert tape of zipper between shell and lining; baste and topstitch through all layers (shell, zipper, lining, polyfill) very close to fold of fabric (0.1-0.2 cm (1/16") ) and at the distance 0.75 cm (1/4”) from the fold.
14. Turn under and press allowances at pants bottoms of shell and lining. Baste together and stitch down bottoms very close to fold of fabric (0.1-0.2 cm).
15. Turn under and press allowances at Sleeves bottoms of shell and lining. Baste together and stitch down Sleeve bottoms very close to fold of fabric (0.1-0.2 cm).
16. Topstitch face edge of Hood very close to fold of fabric (0.1-0.2 cm) and at the distance of 3 cm (1-3/16") from the edge, to create a Hood tunnel.
17. Insert and pull drawcord through waist tunnel. Insert drawcord into Hood tunnel (optional).