Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blends, suiting
You will need: suiting or other fabric suitable for pants; cotton fabric for pocket bags; fusible interfacing; 1 m (1.09yd) of bias tape out out of lining fabric; zipper for front closure; 1 button 1.5 cm (5/8") in diameter; metal hook closure for mens’ pants.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Back Part - 2 pieces
Front Part - 2 pieces
Right Closure Facing - 2 pieces
Left Closure Facing - 1 piece
Back Pocket Facing - rectangle 13 ? 2 cm (5-1/8"x 3/4" ) - 4 pieces
Back Pocket Lip - rectangle 15 ? 4 cm (5-7/8"’x 1-5/8") - 2 pieces
Front Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
Side Part - 2 pieces
Belt Loops - rectangle 48 ? 2 cm (18-7/8"x 3/4") - 1 piece
Waistband - rectangle 48 (50-52-54) ? 8 cm (18-7/8" (19-3/4" 20-1/4" 21-1/4") x 3-1/8’’) - 2 pieces
Lining (cotton fabric):
Side Part with Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Right Closure Facing - 1 piece
Back Pocket Bag - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Waistband
1. Reinforce Waistband pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Assemble Front Pockets.
Apply Front Pocket Facing and Side Part wrong side onto face side of Pocket Bag at the marking (refer to pattern), baste at raw edges and edgestitch with narrow zig-zag seam at bottom edge.
Apply Side Part onto Side Part with Pocket Bag (of cotton fabric), baste at raw edges and edgestitch with narrow zig-zag seam at bottom edge.
Apply Front Pocket Facing (wrong side) onto Front Pocket Bag of cotton calico (face side), matching the notches. Turn under raw edge of Facing and edgestitch it to Pocket Bag. Baste together all raw edges of Facing and Pocket Bag.
Apply Front Pocket Bag onto garment face-to-face and stitch together at pocket entrance. Turn out to the face side; press and double-topstitch.
Apply Side Part with bag underneath the Front Part with bag, matching the notches. Pin together at pocket entrance. Sew Pocket Bags together; serge seam allowances. Staystitch pieces at side and waist edges.
3. Sew back darts. Press dart allowances towards sides.
4. Assemble Back Pockets with two lips.
Fold each Back Pocket Lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press.
Mark back pocket entrance at the face side of Back Part.
Pin 2 Pocket Lips along the pocket entrance, raw edges meeting at pocket entrance line.
Place Back Pocket Bag of cotton fabric on top of each Lip.
Line up raw edges at pocket entrance line. Baste. Stitch Lips at both sides from pocket entrance line, 0.5 cm (3/16") off the line (1.0 cm (3/8") between the parallel stitchings).
Cut fabric between the stitchings; in corners cut diagonally.
Pull Pocket Bags through the opening into the wrong side. Form Lips of Pocket. Trim Pocket Bags if necessary and stitch them together at sides and bottom.
Stitch ends of Lips onto small triangles at the ends of pocket.
5. Sew side seams and inseams; serge allowances.
6. Sew crotch seam of Front Parts up to the notch for zipper closure.
7. Assemble zipper closure unit.
Line up 2 pieces of Right Closure Facing, face-to-face, stitch together at 2 outer edges (outer side and bottom edge). Turn out and press.
Apply Left Closure Facing onto left Front Part at closure area, face-to-face, and stitch together at front edge. Press seam allowances towards Left Closure Facing. Edgestitch this seam. Turn under and press Left Closure Facing to the wrong side of garment.
Pin zipper tape to the front edge of right Front Part, taking raw edges together.
Place Right Closure Facing on top, matching raw edges at front edge. Stitch all layers together at front edge.
Serge seam allowances. Open the parts so that Right Front Part is laid at the left, while zipper and Right Closure Facing are laid at right. Edgestitch zipper and Facing along the previous seam.
Stitch another side of zipper to the loose side edge of Left Closure Facing. Serge seam allowance of Left Facing. Mark topstitching line at left Front.
At the wrong side, bartack together the bottom ends of right and left closure facings.
Topstitch the left Front with a double-topstitching, fastening Left Closure Facing at the same time.
8. Fold Belt Loops piece lengthwise in half, face side inside, stitch along the long edge. Turn out to the face side, press. Cut into 6 equal parts.
9. Mark Belt Loops’ placement. Pin the Loops, directed downwards, onto the waistline (matching raw edge of Loop with raw waist edge). Baste or staystitch the Loops.
10. Fold each Waistband piece lengthwise in half at the marking line, and stitch down short front ends. At the LEFT Waistband, stitch along raw edge of waist for 4 cm (1-5/8"), to form waistband extension. Clip allowances in corners, turn out and press the front ends of left and right Waistbands.
11. Apply left and right Waistband, directed downward, with its reinforced half, onto the waistline of garment, left or right half correspondingly. Stitch waist seam. Press allowances inside the Waistband.
12. Finish raw bottom edge of each half of Waistband with bias tape. For that purpose, place the bias tape face side onto face side of Waistband, matching raw edges, and stitch at 1/4 of tape’s width. Turn bias around the raw egde, turn under the raw edge (1/4 of tape’s width), and stitch in the ditch of previous seam.
13. Sew crotch seam of Back and Waistband (open the Waistband at center back). Serge allowances.
14. Fold the Waistband back at fold line. Hand-sew biased edge of Waistband to the waistline of garment.
15. Turn the Belt Loops upward. Turn under raw edges and bartack Loops to the waistband.
16. Turn under hem allowance of pants’ bottom. Serge raw bottom edges. Hand-sew bottom hems.
17. Mark a buttonhole placement at left extension of the Waistband. Work buttonhole into waistband. Sew button to the right side of waistband accordingly.
18. Install a metal hook closure for mens’ pants next to front zipper.