You will need: fabric suitable for cloak, fusing, lining, 8 buttons, separating zipper, decorative cord, 2 tips for cord.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Back part - 2 details
2. Front part - 2 details
3. Placket for zipper - 2 details
4. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
5. Front facing - 2 details
6. Hood - 4 details
7. Cuff - 2 details
8. Sleeve - 2 details
9. Patch pocket - 2 details
10. Flap - 4 details
11. Off-set welt - 2 details
1. Bust pocket lining - 4 details
2. Back part - 2 details
3. Front part - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, cuff, back neckline facing, placket, reinforcement stripe. Reinforcement is a stripe of fusing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width that exceeds pocket entrance by 2 (6/8") or 3 cm (1-3/16).
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, cuff, back neckline facing, placket, reinforcement stripe.
2. Stitch front dart, cut it apart and pres apart. Stitch back dart and press it towards back center.
3. Cut fabric stripe of 3 cm width for closure loops. Fold the stripe along the center and make a stitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from bend; overstitch one of ends. Turn the stripe right side out and press it. Cut closure loops. Loop length is (button diameter times 2) plus 4 cm.
4. Mark closure loops plates on the placket. Fold every loop half to create a triangle on bend. Fix triangles along the base.
5. Lay placket details right sides together and overstitch two short edges and one of long edges inserting loops. Slash placket corners, turn the placket and press it.
6. Mark the place of off-set welt. Press the welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch welt corners, cut extra fabric in corners and turn the welt right side out. Press ready welt.
7. Apply the reinforcement stripe to wrong side of slit pocket entrance (front part). Mark off-set welt to stitch it to the garment, measuring the width. Lay the welt wrong side on one part of pocket lining's right side, with welt's ready edge downwards, coinciding edges and leaving lining edges at similar width. Lay off-set welt on front part and coincide markings. Stitch the welt to front part (welt is between front part and pocket lining). Fold seam that joins welt to lining out towards welt. Lining's another part: lay it on front part right sides together, lay-to-lay with seam joining welt. Stitch it at 0.8-1 cm (3/8") from seam joining the welt. Check if welt and pocket lining are stitched correctly (stitches on wrong side must be parallel). Remove tacking. Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (5/8") from pocket ends. Turn the welt and pocket lining wrong side out through this hole. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitches on wrong side along corners' base. Stitch pocket lining and serge it. Tack off-set welt to front part and press it. Topstitch welt ends. Remove tacking.
8. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch them. Cut allowances into corners and turn them right side out. Make decorative stitch along flap outer corner at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge and serge flap upper edge.
9. Stitch pleats into pocket. Serge pocket upper edges and press it according to pattern. Topstitch upper edge on the pocket; topstitch the pocket along the contour at 0.2 cm (1/16") from pocket edge. Tops the flap according to marks. Fold the flap towards right side and topstitch it at 0.5 cm from the seam.
10. Mark placket place. Stitch the placket to right front part, fold it out and topstitch on front part.
11. Stitch back middle seam and press it apart. Stitch garment shoulder edges and press them apart.
12. Stitch sleeves into open armholes. Stitch sleeve edge and garment side edge with one seam. Press sleeve side seams apart.
13. Make buttonholes into the hood. Stitch hood middle seam and press it apart. Stitch the hood into the neckline. Stitch the zipper to hood edges and edgings. Press edgings at closure segment into wrong side.
14. Lay hood details together and overstitch them along the contour excluding neckline lower edge and hood edges. Press the hood.
15. Stitch inner hood to front facing, stop stitching 4 cm (1-5/8") before the end.
16. Lay front facing on front part right sides together. Overstitch hood edges and edging along marked line (at front part side). Stitch front facings' lower edges to center front part strictly along marked hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners. Turn edgings right side out. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from the edge.
17. Mark decorative stitch along hood edge. Pull the cord into the hood. Make decorative stitch along hood edge. Set pins on cord's ends.
18. Stitch shoulder edges of back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch inner hood into back facing neckline and front facing.
19. Press the cuff along the center. Turn the cuff and stitch side edge. Press side edge of the cuff apart. Press the cuff along the center along side seam.
20. Stitch cuffs to sleeves' lower edges.
21. Stitch lining details leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam, and stitch sleeves in. Press lining seams. Stitch lining to front facings' inner edges and back neckline facing. Press hood joining seams' allowances apart and fix close to seams. Make decorative stitch at 0.5 cm from edging.
22. Fold lining sleeves under and stitch them to cuffs. Turn the cloak right side out through the hole in the sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole.
23. Sew buttons.