You will need: fabric for raincoat (water-resistant), lining fabric, fusible interfacing, raglan shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece with fold
3. Front Facing - 2 pieces
4. Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
5. Front - 2 pieces
6. Collar - 2 pieces
7. Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
9. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
10. Belt - 1 piece
11. Back - 2 pieces
12. Front - 2 pieces
13. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
14. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
15. Pocket Lining - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: using hot iron, reinforce the wrong side of Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, Collar, Welts, and hem allowances.
1. Pockets with Welts. Assemble Welts: fold Welt in half lengthwise, sew at short sides. Turn out and press. Topstitch the fold of each Welt.
From the wrong side of Front, fuse a stripe of interfacing about 4 cm (about 1-5/8”) wide onto the pocket entrance area. Turn under one long edge of Pocket Facing and topstitch it onto upper Pocket Lining.
Place Pocket Welt onto Front; place upper Pocket Lining (with facing stitched on) onto Front, face-to-face, with raw edges of Welt and Facing meeting at pocket cut line; pin along pocket entrance and sew with two parallel seams. Cut the Front Cut the Front between the two seams, in corners cut diagonally. Be careful not to cut the Welt and Lining! Press seams open. Turn Welt and Lining inside through the pocket entrance, baste along the seams.
At the wrong side, place lower Pocket Lining piece onto Pocket Welt, directing the lining upward, baste. From the face side, topstitch the Welt right into the welt seam, attaching the lining at the same time. Fold the lower Pocket Lining down and press.
Turn small triangles inside; attach them to lining exactly from the upper lining seam to the end of the lower lining seam. Trim Pocket Linings to fit and sew them together. Topstitch Pocket Welt onto Front at short sides.
2. Sew raglan seams of Front and Back, topstitch at 1 cm (3/8”).
3. Sew upper sleeve seams. Sew bottom sleeve seams and side seams of the coat.
4. Sew lower Collar piece into raincoat neckline. Sew shoulder seams of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Sew upper Collar piece into neckline of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Press seams open, clip allowances where curved.
5. Place upper Collar along with Front Facings onto the coat face-to-face. Stitch along the front edge and outer collar edge. Turn out, press. Stitch allowance of upper Collar to neckline to prevent Collar from rolling. Baste Front and Front Facing together along the front edge.
6. At hem, place Front Facing onto Front face-to-face, and sew. Turn Front Facings out, press at hem. Topstitch front edges and outer collar edge at 1 cm (3/8”).
7. Attach shoulder pads.
8. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to lower sleeve edges (at wrists), inside Front Facing edges and Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining.
9. Assemble Belt: fold Belt lengthwise face-to-face, stitch along and at one short end. Turn out, press. Turn under raw edges at short end and topstitch all around the perimeter at 0.5 cm (3/16”).