Recommended fabrics: artificial leather of two color.
You will need: fusible interfacing; separating zipper; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Back yoke – 2 details
2. Middle back part – 2 details
3. Lower back part – 2 details
4. Back contrast insert – 2 details
5. Side lower back part – 2 details
6. Side upper back part – 2 details
7. Front yoke – 2 details
8. Middle front part – 2 details
9. Upper front part – 2 details
10. Upper side front part – 2 details
11. Lower side front part – 2 details
12. Front contrast insert – 2 details
13. Stand-up collar – 2 details
14. Front facing – 2 details
15. Sleeve – 2 details
16. Sleeve back insert – 2 details
17. Sleeve front insert – 2 details
Our advice: if wished, you can cut contrast back and front inserts into additional segments, depending on the material length.
Fusible interfacing: front facing, stand –up collar, back yoke, front yoke; hem allowances: sleeve, front contrast insert, back contrast insert.
1. Strengthen the front facing, stand-up collar, front yoke, back yoke, sleeve hem, front contrast insert hem, back contrast insert hem.
2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) on the collar fall side.
3. Sew front yoke to front contrast insert. Edgestitch front yoke joining seam.
4. Sew middle front part to front contrast insert. Edgestitch middle front part joining seam.
5. Sew lower front part to front contrast insert. Edgestitch lower front part joining seam.
6. Sew upper side front part to front contrast insert. Edgestitch upper side front part joining seam.
7. Sew lower side part to contrast front insert. Edgestitch lower side front part joining seam.
8. Sew back yoke to back contrast insert. Edgestitch back yoke joining seam.
9. Sew upper side part to back contrast insert. Edgestitch upper side back part joining seam.
10. Sew middle back part to back contrast insert. Edgestitch back yoke joining seam.
11. Sew lower back part to back contrast insert. Edgestitch lower side back part joining seam.
12. Sew lower side back part to back contrast insert. Edgestitch lower side back part joining seam
13. Sew shoulder and side seams.
14. Sew inner stand-up collar to the neckline.
15. Fold front parts right sides together coinciding yokes, then measure front edge lengths. Sew the zipper to edges. Fold edges at zipper area under and press through pressing cloth.
16. Sew outer stand-up collar to the front facing.
17. Fold front facing and front part right sides together. Overstitch ends of stand-up and front facing, from the front part side. Sew lower edges of front facings to front part strictly along the marked line of hem turning-under. Cut front edge upper and lower corners Turn edges into right side, trim seams. Topstitch on 0.5 cm (3/16") from the edge.
18. Sew sleeve back insert to the sleeve. Edgestitch back sleeve insert joining seam
19. Sew sleeve front insert to the sleeve. Edgestitch sleeve front insert joining seam
20. Sew sleeve edges. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches.
21. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads into.
22. Sew seams into lining, then sew sleeves into, with a hole in the sleeve front seam. Sew sleeves into and press the lining.
23. Sew lining to front facings and outer stand-up inner edges. Press joining seam allowances apart, then sew near seam. Sew lining sleeves and garment hems to fabric ones.