Home / Women / Raincoats / #5488 Double-breast raincoat
Difficulty: ***
You will need: fabric suitable for cloaks; fusing; 12 studs; lining; shoulder-pads; clasp; eyelets.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting :
Fabric:
1. Center back part - 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Inner collar - 1 detail
4. Outer collar - 1 detail
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Center front part - 2 details
7. Yoke - 2 details
8. Belt - 1 detail
9. Front facing - 2 details
10. Upper sleeve - 2 details
11. Lower sleeve - 2 details
12. flap - 4 details
13. Belt loop - 1 detail
14. Off-set welt - 4 details
Lining:
1. Center back part - 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. side front part - 2 details
4. Center front part - 2 details
5. Pocket lining - 4 details
6. Upper sleeve - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, center front part, inner collar, off-set welt, flap.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing on wrong side of front facing, center front part, inner collar, off-set welt, flap.
2. Lay outer collar on inner one right sides together and overstitch inner collar with outer one. Slash collar corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.
3. Lay off-set welt details right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour. Cut rounded corners allowance and turn right side out. Press off-set welt making edging. Stitch pocket lining to welt.
4. Lay pocket lining onside front part right sides together. Lay pocket lining with welt on center front part right sides together, according to notches. Stitch pocket lining to pocket entrance allowance.
5. Stitch front relieves and pocket lining. Make notches at pocket beginning and pocket end, press relieve allowances apart pressing the pocket. Topstitch welt short edges towards side front part.
6. Stitch back relieve edges. Press relieve seams towards back center.
7. Pin front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch along marked line (on front part side up to the notch that marks end of collar stitching in). Stitch front facing lower edge to front part strictly along hem line. Cut edging upper/lower corners. Topstitch the edging overstitch allowance on: at closure segment - on front facing, at lapel segment - on front part (stitching at 0.2 cm (1/16") from seam). Turn edgings right side out and press them.
8. Stitch garment shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side seams apart.
9. Fold belt loops along the center wrong side out, make edges equal and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm (3/16") from edges. Then turn right side out, placing the seam at fold bend or make edging of 0.1-0.2 m (4-8") width into wrong side, and press it. Cut belt loop according to marking. Topstitch belt loop at side seams at waistline level.
10. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch along outer contour. Cut corner seam allowances, turn the flap right side out and press. Stitch the flap on the yoke according to notches. Lay yoke details right sides together and overstitch along out contour leaving neckline edges free. Turn the yoke right side out and press it. Make studs into flap and front part. Tack the yoke to front/back parts along necklines.
11. Stitch sleeve elbow edge and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front edge and press it apart. Press sleeve hem under.
12. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline. Remove yoke tacking.
13. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. /sew shoulder pads in. Make studs into cloak back part.
14. Sew lining details and sew sleeves into armholes, leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Stitch lining to front facing inner edge and outer collar. Press allowances of seam joining collar apart and fix close to seams.
15. Press garment hem. Overstitch garment hem and sleeves hem with lining. Fix the lining to garment at waist-level seams. Turn the cloak right side out through a hole into sleeve. Stitch sleeve hole edges together.
16. Fold the belt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch the belt along three edges leaving shall hole for turning out. Turn the belt right side out and press it. Topstitch along bend contour at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge. Set the clasp on belt. Turn belt end into wrong side making a loop and topstitch it. Make eyelet into belt. Pull the belt into belt loops.
17. Make studs along edging.