Home / Women / Raincoats / #5484 Double-breast raincoat with yoke

example - #5484 Double-breast raincoat with yoke preview - #5484 Double-breast raincoat with yoke

Difficulty: ***

You will need: fabric suitable for cloak; fusing; 3 buttons; lining; shoulder pads.

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting :

Fabric:

1. Back yoke - 1 detail
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side back part - 2 details
4. Inner collar - 1 detail
5. Outer collar - 1 detail
6. Flap - 4 details
7. Side front part - 2 details
8. Front yoke - 2 details
9. Center front part - 2 details
10. Front facing - 2 details
11. Lower sleeve - 2 details
12. Upper sleeve - 2 details

Lining:

1. Back yoke - 1 detail
2. Center back part - 2 details
3. Side back part - 2 details
4. Side front part - 2 details
5. Front yoke - 2 details
6. Center front part - 2 details
7. Lower sleeve - 2 details
8. Upper sleeve - 2 details
9. Pocket lining - 4 details

Fusing: front facing, center front part, inner collar, front yoke, flap.

Instructions:

1. Apply the fusing to front facing, center front part, inner collar, front yoke, flap.

2. Lay outer collar on inner one right side together and overstitch inner collar with outer one. Slash collar corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.

3. Stitch front/back relieve seams and press them apart. Stitch middle back seam and press it apart. Stitch the yoke to front part and press joining seam apart. Stitch the yoke to back part and press joining seam apart.

4. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch them along outer contour. Cut corner allowances, turn the flap right side out and press it.

5. Cut side slit pocket facings. Mark pocket entrance and reinforce it with reinforcement stripe. Press pocket place. Lay pocket facing along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facing parallel to facing bend line, to stitch it. Mark auxiliary line on the flap, to stitch it to parallel to pocket upper edge, measuring flap width along its length. Mark auxiliary lines parallel to pocket entrance, to stitch the flap and pocket facings. Stitch pocket lining to flap. Stitch facings to front part. Stop stitching close to pocket marking parallel lines. Check if facings are stitched correctly (on wrong side; stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal slits at 1-1.5 cm (5/8") from pocket ends. Turn facings wrong side out through this hole, make facing pressed so that bends of facings meet. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Insert the flap into pocket and stitch to pocket upper edge. Stitch pocket lower lining along the seam joining lower facing; cut pocket lining and stitch lining details together.

6. Pin front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch along marked line (on front part side up to the notch that marks ends of collar stitching in). Stitch front facing lower edges to front part strictly along marked hem. Cut edging upper/lower corners seams. Topstitch edging overstitching allowance on: at closure segment - on front facing on lapel segment - on front edging (stitch at 0.2 cm (1/16") from the seam). Remove pins. Turn edgings right side out and press.

7. Stitch shoulder/side edges of garment. Press shoulder/side apart.

8. Stitch sleeve elbow seam and press it apart. Stitch sleeve front edge and press it apart. Press sleeve hem.

9. Sew inner collar into garment neckline. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads in.

10. Sew lining details together and sew sleeves in, leaving a hole into sleeve right front seam. Press lining allowance. Stitch the lining to front facing inner edges and outer collar. Press allowances of seam joining the collar apart and fix close to seams.

11. Press garment hem under. Overstitch garment hem and sleeve hems with lining. Fix lining to garment on waistline seams. Turn the garment right side out through the hole into sleeve. Stitch a hole into the sleeve.

12. Make buttonholes into front parts. Sew buttons on. Sew blind button.



Free sewing patterns (PDF) available for download

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