Home / Women / Maternity / #5610 Zipper Jacket
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabric: woolen or blended fabrics.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; separating zipper for Front closure (refer to your Front pattern for zipper length); lining; shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
6. Front Facing – 2 pieces
7. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Upper Collar – 1 piece
10. Lower Collar – 1 piece
11. Pocket Welt – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front – 2 pieces (with Front Facing area excluded)
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Pocket Bag - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Front Facings; Back Neckline Facing; Upper Collar; Pocket Welts.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Pocket Welts with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold each Pocket Welt lengthwise in half and stitch at short ends. Clip allowances in corners, turn out the Welt, press. Apply Pocket Bag to the face side of each Welt, aligning top edge of Pocket Bag with raw edge of Welt. Stitch Pocket Bag to Welt.
3.Mark Pocket placement at each Side Front. Place another Pocket Bag onto face side of Side Front between the marks. Place Pocket Bag with Welt attached to it onto face side of Center Front between the marks (Welt should be sandwiched between Center Front and Pocket Bag). Stitch each of two Pocket Bags to Side Front and Center Front along the princess seam allowance. Understitch the seams.
4. Sew front princess seams above and below the pocket entrance. Sew together Pocket Bags. Press princess seams allowances towards center front, press Pocket Bags. Serge Pocket Bags. Topstitch short ends of each Welt onto Side Front.
5. Sew center back seam. Press allowances open. Sew back princess seams. Press allowances open.
6. Place Fronts face-to-face, align center front edges, trim to even, if necessary. Separate zipper. Sew each half of zipper to the center front edges. Turn under allowances at center fronts, press.
7. Place Collar pieces face-to-face and stitch together around outer edges. Clip extra allowances in corners, turn out the Collar. Press.
8. Place each Front Facing onto Center Front part, face sides together, pin along zipper and stitch. You must stitch at the Center Front part, coming from bottom to neckline. Stitch bottom edge of Front Facing to the bottom of garment exactly at the hemline. Grade allowances. Turn bottom corners of jacket out to the face side, press.
9. Sew side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
10. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press allowances open. Sew Collar into neckline. Sew neckline seam of Facings and garment. Clip allowances of neckline. Turn Facings to the wrong side; press neckline.
11. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open. Turn under and press hem allowance at Sleeve bottom. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
12. Sew Sleeves into armhole, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads to the garment. Cut a stripe of polyfill about 1” wide and 3” long, and sew to sleeve allowance at sleeve head (to have more rounded shoulder of jacket).
13. Construct lining similar to shell. Leave an opening in right front Sleeve seam of lining (for turning the garment out).
14. Sew lining to inner edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Bartack together neckline allowances of Collar and Neckline Facing.
15. Sew lining to bottom of jacket and bottom of Sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Sew to close the opening.
16. Topstitch Front edges along zipper at 0.5 cm (3/16”).