Recommended fabric: heavyweight wool fabrics
You will need: shell fabrics; fusible interfacing; separating zipper for front closure (refer to your pattern for zipper length).
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Center Front - 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Back - 1 piece
4. Side Back – 2 pieces
5. Front Neckline Facing - 2 pieces
6. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
7. Back Tie – 2 pieces
8. Back Armhole Facing – 2 pieces
9. Front Armhole Facing – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing; Back Neckline Facing; Back Armhole Facing; Front Armhole Facing.
1. Reinforce Front Facing; Back Neckline Facing; Back Armhole Facing; Front Armhole Facing with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold each Tie lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at one short and one long side. Turn out, press and topstitch each Tie.
3. Sew and serge princess seams of Front. Press seam allowances towards center front.
4. Sew and serge princess seams of Back, inserting Back Ties. Serge and press allowances towards center back.
5. Line up Fronts at center front edges, trim to make left and right front edges even. Separate zipper. Sew zipper tape to each front edge so that coil/teeth of zipper are directed towards princess seam.
6. Line up Front Facing with garment, face sides together, and stitch together at center front edge. Stitch bottom edge of Front Facing to Front exactly at marked hemline. Cut allowances in bottom corners. Turn Front Facings to the wrong side, press.
7. Serge side edges and shoulder edges. Sew side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
8. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Neckline Facing. Press seams open. Serge bottom edge of Neckline Facings (NOT the edge that goes into neckline).
9. Place Neckline Facings onto garment neckline, face-to-face, and stitch together along the neckline. Turn Facing to the wrong side, clipping allowances at curves. Understitch the neckline seam. Press neckline.
10. Sew side and shoulder seams of Front and Back Armhole Facings. Serge outer edge of Armhole Facing. Place Armhole Facings onto garment armhole, face-to-face, and stitch together. Turn Facing to the wrong side, clipping allowances at curves. Understitch the armhole seam. Press armhole.
11. Bartack Neckline Facing to shoulder seams. Bartack Armhole Facing to side seams, shoulder seams and princess seams.
12. Serge bottom edge of vest. Turn under hem allowances and topstitch. Topstitch Fronts along zipper at 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the edge.