Recommended fabric: soft wool fabrics, knits, sweatshirt knit, fleece.
You will need: shell fabric or knit; fusible interfacing; 1 zipper for front (refer to your pattern for zipper length).
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Front - 1 piece
2. Back - 1 piece
3. Pocket - 1 piece
4. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
6. Collar – 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: upper Collar, zipper reinforcement stripe.
1. Reinforce upper Collar with fusible interfacing.
2. Serge raw edges of Pocket. Press pocket allowances at top, sides and bottom to the wrong side as per pattern. Turn under allowance of Pocket entrances (curved), topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”). Mark Pocket placement at Front. Apply pocket to front and stitch at top, bottom and side edges.
3. Mark zipper placement at Front as two vertical parallel lines. From the wrong side, reinforce zipper area with a stripe of fusible interfacing. Cut a slit for zipper, ending the cut 1 cm (3/8”) above mark for end of zipper. Make two diagonal cuts to the bottom corners of zipper marks. Serge long edges of zipper slit, turn them under and press. Place zipper underneath the slit so that the teeth are seen. Sew zipper, turning inside the small triangle at bottom of zipper slit. Edgestitch finished edges of zipper slit.
4. Sew and serge upper sleeve seam. Press allowances towards Back. Sew each Sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Serge seam allowances. Sew side seam and under-sleeve seam at one go. Serge seam allowances, press towards Back.
5. Turn under and press hem allowances of Sleeves. First, turn under raw edge at 1 cm (3/8”) width, press. Then turn under 2 cm (3/4”), press again. Topstitch Sleeve bottom.
6. Place Collar pieces face-to-face, sew and serge. Clip allowances in corners, turn out the Collar, press.
7. Sew lower Collar into neckline. Turn under raw neckline edge of outer Collar, baste to neckline. Stitch in the ditch of neckline seam to attach outer Collar.
8. Turn under allowances at bottom of garment – first, for 1 cm (3/8”), then, for 2 cm (3/4”). Topstitch bottom hem.