Home / Women / Jackets / #5535 Side-Tie Jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight fabrics of natural fibers or blends.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Top Front – 2 pieces
5. Middle Front – 2 pieces
6. Bottom Front – 2 pieces
7. Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Tie/band 1 – 2 pieces
9. Tie/band 2 – 2 pieces
10. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower Collar – 1 piece
13. Upper Collar – 1 piece
14. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back - 2 pieces
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Bottom Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Front Yoke, Upper Front, Middle Front, Bottom Front, hem allowances of Sleeves and jacket, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Front Yoke, Upper Front, Middle Front, Bottom Front, hem allowances of Sleeves and jacket, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at Back. Sew darts. Press allowances towards center back.
3. Place Upper Collar and Lower Collar face-to-face, stitch together at outer edges. Clip allowances, turn out the Collar, press.
4. Sew Top Front to Front Yoke. Sew Middle Front to Top Front. Sew Bottom Front to Middle Front. Press allowances of all seams open.
5. Place parts of Tie/Band-1 face-to-face and stitch together at three sides (leave an opening at short end that goes into side seam). Turn out and press Tie-1. Assemble Tie/Band-2 in a similar manner. Sew Ties to front edges: sew short Tie to the right front; sew long Tie to the left Front.
6. Line up Front Facings with Fronts face-to-face, pin and stitch together at front edges. Stitch at the Fronts from bottom up to the notch for Collar. Sew bottoms of Front Facings to Fronts exactly at the marked hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of fronts. Understitch front edges: at closure area, to Front Facings; at lapels, to Fronts. Turn out fronts to the face side, press.
7. Sew center back seam, press allowances open. Sew princess seams of back. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket, leaving an opening for Tie in the right side seam. Press all seams open.
8. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings. Press neckline seams open. Staystitch together neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars, to prevent Collar from distorting.
9. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Press under bottom hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve; press allowances open.
10. Sew Sleeves into armholes as per notches. Sew shoulder pads. Sew stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances at sleeve caps.
11. Assemble lining parts similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam of Sleeve (for turning out) and in the left side seam (for the Tie).
12. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Baste and edgestitch shell and lining around the edges of opening for Tie in the side seam.
13. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeve bottoms. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.