Home / Women / Jackets / #5598 Short-Sleeved Jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: lightweight transparent fabrics of natural or artificial fibers.
You will need: shell fabric; elastic, bias tape (about 3 cm (1-3/16”) wide).
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell Fabric:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Collar – 1 piece
4. Back Facing – 2 pieces
5. Front Facing – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Cuff – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve Cap – 4 pieces
Instructions:
1. Machine-baste 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the raw edge at bottom of Front. Pull threads to make gathers between the notches.
2. Fold bias tape lengthwise in half, press. Finish front edges of each Front with bias.
3. Mark placement of darts at Back. Sew darts; press them towards center back.
4. Sew center back seam. Serge seam allowances, press them to one side.
5. Sew side and shoulder seams. Serge seam allowances; press towards Back.
6. Fold Collar lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and machine-baste at the short ends. Pull threads to make gathers. Clip allowances in corners of Fronts where the Collar must be sewn in. Baste and sew Collar into neckline. Trim seam allowances down to 0.5 cm (3/16”), serge. Finish the allowances with bias tape.
7. Sew Back Facing to Front Facing at side seam. Sew outer Facing to the bottom edge of jacket, matching the notch of Front Facing with the front edge of Front. Clip allowances at the ends of seam, serge. Line up outer and inner Facings, face-to-face, and stitch at the raw edges, starting and ending the seam at the point where Facing is sewn to front edges of Fronts. Turn out the Facing, press. Turn under and press raw edge of inner Facing, baste to garment. Stitch in the ditch of seam of attaching the Facing to jacket, to fasten inner Facing.
8. Machine-baste at bottom hem and armhole allowance of Sleeve. Pull to make gathers. Sew Sleeve Cap to the Sleeve. Turn allowances inside the Cap circle, press. In two remaining Sleeve Cap pieces, turn under and press allowances all around, except for armhole allowance. Baste Cap to the inside of Sleeve. Stitch in the ditch of Sleeve Cap seam to attach inside Cap pieces. Press the Caps.
9. Fold each Cuff lengthwise in half, wrong sides together, and press. Open the Cuff. Fold each Cuff piece so that short ends are lined up together. Stitch at short ends. Press allowances open. Fold the Cuff lengthwise back again, press the fold.
10. Sew under-sleeve seam. Serge allowances separately, press them open. Sew the outer half of Cuff to the bottom edge of Sleeve. Turn seam allowances inside the Cuff, press. Turn under and press raw edge of inner half of Cuff. For tight fit of Cuffs, sew elastic to Cuff between the notches. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam to attach inner Cuff.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes according to notches. Serge seam allowances, press.