Home / Women / Jackets / #5552 Short-Sleeved Jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight linens or cottons.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; 4 buttons; lining; shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Facing – 2 pieces
4. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
5. Flap – 4 pieces
6. Lower Collar – 1 piece
7. Upper Collar – 1 piece
8. Sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Cuff – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Fronts, Flaps, Upper Collar, Cuffs.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Fronts, Flaps, Upper Collar, Cuffs with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark placement of darts at Fronts and Back. Sew darts at Front and Back. Clip darts’ allowances, press darts of Fronts open. Serge Back darts’ allowances, press back darts towards center back.
3. Line up Flaps face-to-face and stitch around three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners; turn out the Flap, press. Serge raw edges of Flap. Line up Upper and Lower Collars, stitch together at outer and two side edges. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out and press the Collar.
4. Mark placement of Flap at each Front. Apply Flap to Front, with raw edges directed towards bottom of jacket, baste and topstitch. Turn the Flap down, topstitch again.
5. Line up Front Facing and Front face-to-face, pin and stitch long front edge. Stitch at the Front (with Front facing at the bottom), from bottom hem up to the notch for Collar start. Remove pins. Clip allowances at top front edge corners. Baste or understitch front edge seam: at the closure area, to Front Facing; at the lapel, to Front.
6. Sew center back seam. Serge and press allowances to one side.
7. Mark darts placement at lining of Front. Sew darts, press. Serge shoulder edge of lining of Front. Mark hem allowance at Back of jacket. Serge bottom edge of Back. Turn under hem allowance of Fronts and Back, press. Sew lining to outer edge of Front Facing. Sew lining to shell at bottom of Front.
8. Sew side seams, turning away bottom hem allowance of Back, so that Front is enclosed into Back hemming. Serge side seams. Turn Back hemming allowance back to the wrong side, press.
9. Serge shoulder edges of jacket. Sew shoulder seams. Press allowances open. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Sew Upper Collar into Neckline of Facings. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of Fronts/Back. Press neckline allowances open. Stitch together neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collar, to avoid distortion of the Collar. Sew shoulder allowance of lining to shoulder seam of jacket.
10. Mark and form pleats at Sleeve armhole and bottom; pin or baste. Press each Cuff lengthwise in half, wrong side inside. Open the Cuff, fold across and stitch together short sides. Press seam open. Fold Cuff in half and press. Serge undersleeve seam allowances. Sew undersleeve seam. Press seam open. Sew Cuff to the bottom edge of Sleeve. Serge the seam of Cuff.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes according to notches. Serge seam allowances. Topstitch jacket at 0.5 cm (3/16”) at front edges, lapels and bottom. Remove basting threads.
12. Mark and work buttonholes into right Front. Sew buttons at the left Front accordingly.