Home / Women / Jackets / #5312 Sharp collar jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: elastic velvet.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 7 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke – 1 detail
2. Center back part – 1 detail
3. Side back part - 2 details
4. Lower back part - 2 details
5. Front yoke – 2 details
6. Side front part – 2 details
7. Middle front part – 2 details
8. Center front part – 4 details
9. Center-side front part – 2 details
10. Sleeve – 2 details
11. Cuff – 2 details
12. Flap – 4 details
13. Upper pocket bag – 4 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, cuff, flap.
Instructions:
1. Strengthen the upper center front facing, cuff and the flap with fusible interfacing
2. Sew center-side front part to side front part. Sew side front part to center-side front part. Double-topstitch princess seams of Fronts.
3. Fold the flap and under-flap detail wrong side together, then overstitch along the outer contour. Cut the allowance of flap corners and turn out. Double-topstitch along flap outer contour on 0.2 cm from the edge. Coincide flap open edges and yoke edges (flap on front yoke right part), fold upper pocket part bag on the flap, then tack. Coincide lower part of the bag and lower front part right side. Sew flap and the bag. Sew the yoke to the front part. Turn the bag inside, then equalize and topstitch. Tack the bag along the outer contour and topstitch the bag on the front part. Cut the seam near the pocket. Press the joining seam into the yoked, then topstitch.
4. Sew side back part to center back part. Sew the yoke to the back part. Double-topstitch princess seams of Fronts.
5. Sew shoulder and side edges.
6. Sew collar center seam on the upper center front part and lower front part. Sew side edges of center lower front part and lower back part. Sew side edges of upper front part and upper lower back part. Oversew inner edge of center upper front part with lower back part.
7. Sew center lower front part and lower back part to front and back parts, at the same time sewing one-piece collar to neckline, coinciding notches.
8. Fold center upper front part and back lower part right sides together with central front lower part, then pin them to edges one-piece with the collar. Pin edges of outer and inner collar. Overstitch edges along the edge and the collar.
9. Turn upper front part and lower back part into wrong side. Oversew and press edges. Double-topstitch princess along the edge and the collar on0.2 cm front the edge. Topstitch one-piece outer collar with center front part on 0.2 cm (1/16") from center lower front part-lower back part joining seam.
10. Mark sleeve notch length and sew sleeve seas. Press lower cuff upper edge on 1 cm (3/8"). Fold the cuff along the center and overstitch cuff side edges. Cut corner seam allowances and turn the cuff right side out.
11. Sew upper cuff to sleeve lower edge, then topstitch the lower cuff.
12. Sew sleeves into the armhole according to notches.
13. Oversew buttonholes into the flap and the cuff, then sew buttons. Wok buttonholes into the right front part, and sew buttons to the left one.