Recommended fabrics: silk and viscose.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 9 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Front part - 2 details
2. Back part - 1 detail
3. Front facing - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
5. Collar - 2 details
6. Upper patch pocket – 2 details
7. Lower patch pocket – 2 details
8. Upper patch pocket flap – 4 details
9. Lower patch pocket flap – 4 details
10. Epaulettes – 4 details
11. Cuff – 4 details
12. Belt – 2 details
13. Band loops – 3 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, outer collar, cuffs, flaps.
1. Strengthen the front facing, outer collar, cuffs and flaps with fusible interfacing.
2. Press box pleats into pockets. Box pleats are the wrong side of inverted box pleat.
3. Fold under and topstitch pocket one-piece facings, then press side and lower allowances of pockets (according to patterns).
4. Topstitch pockets on the front part coinciding them to marking.
5. Overstitch upper and lower pockets flaps. Edgestitch. Tack flap upper edge and sew in accordance with marking. Turn flaps out and topstitch on the front part.
6. Tack front facing inner edges. Overstitch front part with front facings.
7. Sew shoulder seams.
8. Sew side seams.
9. Overstitch inner collar with outer one, then turn out and press.
10. Turn front facings into wrong side. Oversew and press edges. Sew inner collar to the neckline, fold the outer collar open edge under and topstitch along the inner collar joining seam. Sew front facing into shoulder seams with 1 cm width stitch.
11. Sew sleeve seams.
12. Press lower cuff upper edge on 1 cm (3/8"). Overstitch lower cuff with upper one and turn in out into right side.
13. Sew upper cuff to sleeve hem. Topstitch lower cuff.
14. Overstitch epaulettes, turn them out, then press and edgestitch.
15. Sew sleeves into armholes, inserting epaulettes and fitting along caps.
16. Sew both belts. Fold the belt along the center and overstitch it along three sides, with unstitched place in the middle. Turn the belt into right side, press and sew the place.
17. Fold the belt loop along the center right sides together, equalize edges and overstitch on 0.5-0.7 cm (1/4") from edges. Then turn it into right side, place the seam along the center bend, or make an edging into wrong side on 0.1-0.2 cm (1/16"), then press.
18. Topstitch belt loops according to marking on side seams and on back enter. Pull the belt into loops.
19. Tack hem allowance, turn into wrong side and topstitch along the edge.
20. Tack button holes into epaulettes and flaps.
21. Work a button holes into right front part and sew buttons to left one.