Home / Women / Jackets / #5553 Long Jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight wool blends or other suit-type fabrics.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; 1 button; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Top Back – 2 pieces
2. Center Bottom Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Bottom Back – 2 pieces
4. Back Insert – 1 piece
5. Lower Collar – 1 piece
6. Upper Collar – 1 piece
7. Side Bottom Front – 2 pieces
8. Top Front – 2 pieces
9. Center Bottom Front – 2 pieces
10. Front Insert – 2 pieces
11. Front Facing – 2 pieces
12. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Front – 2 pieces
2. Side Part - 2 pieces
3. Back – 2 pieces
4. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Top Front, Bottom Front.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Upper Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Top Front, Bottom Front with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at the Top Fronts and Top Back. Sew darts and press them towards center back and center front accordingly.
3. Line up Upper and Lower Collars, face-to-face. Sew Collars together at three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out the Collar, press.
4. Sew Center Bottom Front to Side Bottom Front. Press allowances open. Sew Front Insert to the Bottom Front. Press seam open; edgestitch the seam. Sew Top Front to the top edge of Front Insert. Press seam open; edgestitch the seam.
5. Line up Front Facing and Front at front edges, face-to-face, pin together and stitch at front edge and lapel. You must stitch at the Front, from the bottom up to the notch for Collar. Sew bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam, going exactly at level of hemline. Clip allowances in upper and lower corners of front edges. Understitch front edge seam: to Front Facing at the closure area; to Front, at lapel area. Turn front edges to the face side, press.
6. Sew center back seam of Top Back parts. Press seam open. Sew center back seam of Center Bottom Back parts. Press seam open. Sew Center Bottom Back to Side Bottom Backs. Press seams open. Sew Back Insert to Bottom Back. Press seam open; edgestitch the seam. Sew Back Insert to the Top Back. Press seam open; edgestitch the seam.
7. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket. Press seams open.
8. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings.
9. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Press under hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
10. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads. Sew stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances at sleeve cap.
11. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam of sleeve.
12. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline allowances open. Stitch together neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars, to prevent Collar from distorting.
13. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
14. Mark buttonhole placement. Work buttonhole into right Front; sew button at left Front accordingly.