Home / Women / Jackets / #5346 Jacket with yoke
Difficulty: **
You will need: denim; fusing; 4 studs; separating zipper.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Back yoke - 1 piece
2. Middle back part - 2 pieces
3. Side back part - 2 pieces
4. Back facing - 1 piece
5. Front yoke - 2 pieces
6. Side front part - 2 pieces
7. Middle front part - 2 pieces
8. Epaulette - 2 pieces
9. Front facing - 2 pieces
10. Flap - 4 pieces
11. Collar - 2 pieces
12. Waistband - 2 pieces
13. Sleeve - 2 pieces
14. Cuff - 2 pieces
Fusing: front facing, inner collar, back neckline facing, under-flap, waistband.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, inner collar, back neckline facing, under-flap, waistband.
2. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch inner collar with outer one. Turn collars right side out.
3. Stitch relieve seams of side/middle front parts. Press relieve seams towards middle part. Stitch relieve seams of middle/side back parts and serge them. Press back relieve seams towards middle back part. Stitch middle back seam and serge it. Press middle back seam and press it rightwards.
4. Stitch the yoke to back part. Serge joining seam. Topstitch along back yoke at 0.5 cm (3/16") distance.
5. Lay flaps and under-flaps right sides together and overstitch them. Cut allowances of rounded corners, then turn them right side out. Topstitch along flaps' outer contour at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge.
6. Lay the flap on front yoke and stitch it to yoke lower edge between vertical marks. Stitch the yoke to front part. Serge yoke joining seam. Topstitch along front yoke at 0.5 cm (3/16") distance.
7. Stitch epaulettes to front yoke and serge joining seam. Press seams towards epaulettes and topstitch at 0.5 cm distance.
8. Fold the waistband along the center right sides together and overstitch it along three sides excepting one of side edges. Turn the waistband right side out and press it. Tack the waistband according to notches to left side back seam.
9. Stitch the zipper to edgings. Serge front facings' outer edges and back neckline facings. Lay front facing on front part right sides together, then overstitch along edgings (at front part's side). Turn edgings right side out. Stitch shoulder edges of front facing and back neckline facing together.
10. Stitch side seams and serge them. Stitch epaulettes to back yoke and serge. Press the seam towards epaulettes and topstitch them. Remove tacking. Fix waistband right end with a stitch of 5 cm (2") length to middle front part into topstitch (5 cm (2") from the distance).
11. Serge cuff lower edge and jacket hem. Stitch cuffs to sleeves' lower edges. Serge cuff joining seams and topstitch them at 0.5 cm from joining seams. Stitch sleeve seams and serge them.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches.
13. Insert the collar between the garment and the facing. Stitch the collar into jacket's neckline. Lay topstitch at 0.5 cm from zipper joining line. Fix the facing and front facing to seams joining epaulettes with 1 cm (3/8") stitch.
14. Pierce studs' upper part into flap; pierce lower parts into middle front part, in accordance with marking. Pierce studs' upper parts into waistband's right end, pierce lower parts into left middle front part in accordance with marking.
Our advice: if you wish, you can fix the waistband at side/relieve seams with a stitch.
