Home / Women / Jackets / #5536 Jacket With Topstitched Fronts
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabric:: Jean fabric
You will need: jean fabric; fusible interfacing; 1 button; lining fabric; shoulder pads; 2 stripes of polyfill for sleeve heads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Side Front – 2 pieces
2. Middle Front - 2 pieces
3. Center Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Front 2 – 2 pieces
5. Front Insert – 2 pieces
6. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
7. Back – 2 pieces
8. Side Back – 2 pieces
9. Lower Collar – 1 piece
10. Upper Collar – 1 piece
11. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
12. Front Facing – 2 pieces
13. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Side Front – 2 pieces
2. Middle Front – 2 pieces
3. Center Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Front 2 – 2 pieces
5. Front Insert – 2 pieces
6. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
7. Back – 2 pieces
8. Side Back – 2 pieces
9. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facings, Front Yoke, Center Front, bottom hem allowances of Sleeves and jacket, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, Front Yoke, Center Front, bottom hem allowances of Sleeves and jacket, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark placement of darts at Backs. Sew darts, press them towards center back.
3. Line up Upper and Lower Collars face-to-face, stitch around at three outer sides. Turn out, press the Collar.
4. Sew Side Front to Middle Front. Press seam open. Topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm. Sew Front Insert to Side and Middle Fronts. Press and topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
5. Sew Center Front and Center Front 2 together. Press seam open. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
6. Sew Middle Front to Center Fronts. Press allowances open. Topstitch at 0.5 cm.
7. Sew Front Yoke to the assembled bottom part of Front. Press and topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
8. Line up Front Facing with assembled Front at front edge, face-to-face, pin together, stitch along front edge. You must stitch at the Front (with Front Facing at the bottom), along lapel up to the notch for start of Collar. Stitch bottom of Front Facing to Front exactly at the hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edge. Understitch front edge seam: to Front Facing, at the closure area; to Fronts, at lapels. Turn out front edges, press.
9. Sew center back seam. Press seam allowances open. Sew princess seams of Back. Press princess seams open. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket. Press allowances open.
10. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Back Neckline Facing.
11. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Turn under and press bottom hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press seam open.
12. Sew Sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seam and armhole allowances. Hand-sew stripes of polyfill to allowances of armhole head, so the polyfill is between the allowances and sleeve head itself.
13. Assemble lining parts similar to shell, leaving an opening in right front seam of sleeve, for turning out.
14. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and bottom edge of Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline allowances open. Stitch together neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars to prevent the collar from distorting.
15. Sew lining to shell at bottom of jacket and sleeve bottoms. Turn the jacket out to the face side through the opening in right sleeve. Stitch to close the opening in the sleeve.
16. Mark buttonhole placement at the right Front. Work buttonhole into Front. Sew a button to left Front accordingly.