Home / Women / Jackets / #5549 Jacket With Three Collars
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: double-sided fabrics (with same or contrasting colors of sides) of natural or artificial fibers.
You will need: double-sided fabric; fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve heads; bias tape (ready-made or self-cut); 2 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Back Flounce – 3 pieces
3. Back Flounce Facing – 1 piece
4. Front – 2 pieces
5. Collar – 4 pieces
6. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
7. Center Front – 6 pieces
8. Front Facing – 2 pieces
9. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Flap – 4 pieces
12. Pocket – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Back – 2 pieces
2. Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Back Neckline Facing, Lower Collar, Front Facing.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Back Neckline Facing, Lower Collar and Front Facing with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at Back and Front. Sew darts, clip allowances and press them open.
3. Line up Flap pieces face-to-face and stitch together at three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out and press the Flap. Serge raw upper edges of Flap.
4. Mark pocket placement at each Front. Serge raw edges of Pocket all around. Turn under and press allowance at top of Pocket. Topstitch top edge of Pocket. Turn under and press allowances at sides and bottom of Pocket. Apply Pocket to Front as per marks, topstitch at sides and bottom. Apply Flap to Front, with raw edges facing the Pocket, and topstitch the Flap onto Front at raw edges. Turn the Flap down, topstitch again 0.5 cm (3/16”) from the previous seam.
5. Line up Center Fronts, baste and stitch to Front, ending the seam 1.5 cm (5/8”) from side seam.
6. Sew center back seam. Press allowances open. Sew side seams of jacket. Press seam allowances open. Sew shoulder seams, ending the seam 1.5 cm (5/8”) from the neckline.
7. Sew Back Flounce to Center Front. Press seams open; serge allowances separately. Line up upper edges of flounces and stitch them to bottom edge of Back.
8. Sew Collars to Center Fronts up to the shoulder seam. Serge seam allowances, press open. Note: Lower Collar in matched with Center Front FACE-TO-FACE; two Upper Collars are matched with Fronts FACE-TO-WRONG side. Press open seams of Lower Collar; press to one side, then serge, seams of two Upper Collars.
9. Sew shoulder seams to the very end. Line up neckline edges of Collars. Clip back neckline next to shoulder seams. Sew three collars into neckline of Back.
10. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Sew Collar into neckline of Facings. Press allowances open. Sew side edges of Front Facing to Back Flounce Facing. Press seams open.
11. Press bias tape lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and trim outer edges of two Upper Collars and Center Fronts with bias.
12. Place Front Facing and Back Flounce Facing onto Front, face-to-face, pin and stitch together at front edges, outer edge of Lower Collar and bottom edge of Back Flounce. Clip allowances at bottom front corners. Understitch front edge: at closure area, to Front Facing; at Collar area, to Front. Turn out front edges.
13. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Turn under and press hem allowance at Sleeve bottom. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
14. Sew Sleeves into armholes as per notches. Sew shoulder pads and stripes of polyfill (to armhole allowance at top of armhole) to form sleeve head.
15. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leasing an opening in the right front sleeve seam.
16. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline allowances open. Stitch together neckline allowances to avoid distortion of Collar.
17. Sew lining to Back Flounce Facing. Sew lining to shell at bottom of Sleeves. Turn the jacket through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
18. Take two bottom right Fronts and make buttonholes through both of them. Sew buttons to the left Front.