Home / Women / Jackets / #5541 Jacket With Puffed Sleeve Cap
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight fabrics of natural or artificial fibers.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; 11 hooks and eyes (11 each); lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Side Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Facing – 2 pieces
4. Lower Collar – 1 piece
5. Upper Collar – 1 piece
6. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Sleeve Cap – 2 pieces
9. Center Back – 2 pieces
10. Center Front – 2 pieces
11. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Lining:
1. Side Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Front – 2 pieces
3. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
4. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Center Back – 2 pieces
6. Center Front – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Center Fronts.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing, Upper Collar, Center Fronts, and armhole areas at Fronts and Backs with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at Fronts and Backs. Sew darts at Back and press them towards center back. Sew darts at Fronts, clip allowances to press them open.
3. Line up Upper and Lower Collars, stitch around at three outer sides. Clip allowances, turn out the Collar; press.
4. Mark hooks and eyes placement. Sew hooks to right Front; sew eyes to left Front. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin and stitch together along front edge. Stitch at the Front (with Front Facing underneath), from bottom up to the notch for Collar. Sew Front Facing to Front along bottom hem line. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edge. Understitch front edge seam: at the closure area, to Front Facing; at lapels, to Front. Turn out fronts, press.
5. Sew princess seams of Fronts and Backs. Press seams open. Sew center back seam. Press seam open. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket. Press seams open.
6. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings.
7. Machine-baste along seam allowances at top and bottom edges of Sleeve Caps. Pull threads to make shirring.
8. Sew bottom edge of Sleeve Cap to the Front Sleeve part. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve (Front and Back Sleeve parts). Press under hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
9. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seam allowances, and stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances at Sleeve cap.
10. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam.
11. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline seams allowances open. Staystitch neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars together, to prevent Collar from distorting.
12. Sew lining to shell at bottoms of Sleeves and bottom of jacket. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close an opening in the Sleeve.