Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Lower pocket frame – 4 pieces
2. Collar – 2 pieces
3. Upper back part – 2 pieces
4. Lower back part – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
6. Upper front part – 2 pieces
7. Lower front part – 2 pieces
8. Front band – 2 pieces
9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Back part – 2 pieces
14. Front part – 2 pieces
15. Upper sacking – 2 pieces
16. Lower sacking – 2 pieces
17. Closure facing – 2 pieces
Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front bands. Back neckline facings, front parts.
1. Stitch front/back darts, stitch front parts’/back parts’ details together; stitch back middle seam.
2. Cut front slit pockets “in frames”: apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to wrong side of pocket marking. Lay 2 pocket facings on front part, pin them together along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings coincides to pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Press seam facing allowances apart. Fold facings into wrong side through the slit to make a neat frame, then tack. Lay sacking on front part’s wrong side, on lower facing (lay sacking upward); topstitch lower facing on right side along joining seam catching the sacking. Press sacking downwards. Fold the allowance of one of valance long edges and topstitch the valance on another sacking. Lay another sacking on the pocket on front part’s wrong side and stitch it on right side’s seam joining upper facing. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut sackings, adjust, and stitch them together.
3. Do the same for closure frame at front band.
4. Stitch shoulder/side seams.
5. Pin front bands to front edges right side together, overstitch edgings with front bands. Stitch shoulder seams of front band and back neckline facing.
6. Process the collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline; stitch outer collar into facing neckline. Press seam allowance apart. Sew pressed allowance of inner collar joining seams and back neckline facing from inside.
7. Sew garment hem under.
8. Sew sleeve seas. Sew sleeves into garment armholes easing them along sleeve caps.
9. Sew shoulder pads.
10. Stitch darts into lining front/back parts, stitch lining details. Stitch lining to sleeve hems, to font bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining.
11. Sew buttons on left front part.