You will need: fabric suitable for cloak, fusing, 7 buttons, clasp, lining
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Collar - 2 details
2. Stand-up collar - 2 details
3. Cuff - 2 details
4. Sleeve - 2 details
5. Pocket - 2 details
6. Front pocket flap - 4 details
7. Upper pocket big pocket bag - 1 detail
8. Front part - 2 details
9. Back part - 2 details
10. Belt loop - 1 detail
11. Belt - 1 detail
12. Epaulette - 4 details
13. Front facing - 2 details
1. Upper pocket small pocket bag
Fusing: flap, epaulette, front facing, cuff, reinforcement stripe.
1. Apply the fusing on wrong side of flap, epaulette, front facing, cuff, reinforcement stripe.
2. Lay collar details right sides together and overstitch along the contour. Slash collar corners and turn them right side out. Press the collar.
3. Mark patch pocket place at front part. Reinforce pocket entrance with reinforcement stripe. Cut pocket facings. Press pocket facings along the center right side out. Mark auxiliary line at pocket facings parallel to facing bend, for stitching it. Mark auxiliary line parallel to pocket entrance to stitch facing. Stitch facings to front part. Stop stitching at pocket parallel marking. Check if facings are stitched correctly (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal notches at 1-1.5 cm (3/8 - 5/8") from pocket ends. Turn facings into wrong side through this hole, check facing ends. Reinforce pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Lay the zipper under pocket entrance with its teeth visible. Stitch the zipper in and stitch big/small pocket bags to facing allowances. Stitch pocket bag and serge it.
4. Lay flap details right sides together and overstitch them. Cut flap corner allowances and turn right side out. Press ready flap. Serge flap upper edge.
5. Serge patch pocket upper edge. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch. Serge patch pocket outer contour and press allowance according to patter.
6. Mark pocket and flap place on front part. Topstitch the pocket on front part at 0.2 cm (1/16") from pocket edge. Stitch the pocket according to marking, fold it out and topstitch.
7. Lay epaulette details, overstitch along the contour, leaving upper edge free. Turn the epaulette, press and topstitch along the contour.
8. Fold the belt along the center, right side in. Overstitch the belt along three edges leaving a hole for turning right side out. Turn the belt right side out and press it. Topstitch along belt contour at 0.5 cm (3/16") from edge. Set a clasp on the belt. Fold belt end into wrong side, making a loop, and topstitch it.
9. Serge front facing outer edge. Pin front facing on front part and overstitch along marked line (from front part side). Stitch front facing lower edges to front part strictly along marked hem line. Cut edging lower corners seams allowance. Remove pins. Turn edgings right side out and press seams. Fix front neckline edge to front facing.
10. Serge back middle edge. Stitch the back middle seam and press it apart.
11. Serge shoulder/side edges. Press shoulder/side apart. Stitch the epaulette on shoulder seam at armhole edge at 0.5 cm distance. Serge garment lower edge.
12. Fold belt loop along the center wrong side out, coincide edges and overstitch at 0.5-0.7 cm (3/16") from edges. Then turn right side out, place the seam at bend or making edging of 0.1-0.2-cm (1/16") width into wrong side, and press it. Cut belt loops according to marking. Topstitch belt loops on side seams at waist level.
13. Stitch stand-up collars inserting the collar between them.
14. Stitch lower stand-up with collar into neckline, fold outer stand-up upper edge under and topstitch along seam joining inner stand-up. Topstitch along the collar. Fix front facings at shoulder seams with 1 cm (3/8") stitch.
15. Serge sleeve edges. Stitch sleeve edges together and press apart.
16. Press the cuff along the center right side out. Stitch cuff side edges together (cuff unfolded) and press apart. Press cuff lower edge.
17. Stitch cuffs to sleeve hems and serge cuff upper edges together with sleeves. Topstitch the seam joining cuff towards sleeve.
18. Stitch sleeve easing sleeve caps.
19. Fold garment hem under and topstitch.
20. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one. Sew buttons on epaulettes.