Home / Women / Jackets / #5491 Jacket with decorative stitching
Difficulty: ***
You will need: denim, fusing, separable zipper, 2 buttons, lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Back yoke - 1 detail
4. Back waistband - 2 details
5. Front yoke - 2 details
6. Side front part - 2 details
7. Center front part - 2 details
8. Front waistband - 2 details
9. Lower waistband - 2 details
10. Outer collar - 1 detail
11. Inner collar - 1 detail
12. Patch pocket - 2 details
13. Front facing - 2 details
14. Upper sleeve - 2 details
15. Lower sleeve - 2 details
16. Cuff - 4 details
17. Off-set welt - 2 details
Lining:
1. Pocket lining - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, collar, off-set welt, cuffs, back waistband, lower waistband.
Instructions:
1. Apply the fusing to wrong side of front facing, collar, off-set welt, cuffs, back waistband, lower waistband.
2. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch along outer contour. Slash collar corners and turn them side out. Press the collar.
3. Sew front and back princess seams. Serge back and front princess seams. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from seams joining front and back princess seams.
4. Fold off-set welt along the center, right side out, and press. Mark welt place on pocket. On the welt, mark the line of sewing to pocket, measuring the width. Topstitch the welt on pocket coinciding marked lines. Lay pocket lining on pocket right side to marked upper line, and stitch. Check whether welt is stitched to pocket correctly (stitches must be parallel to each other and distance between them equal to ready welt wide). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cut at 1-1.5 cm (5/8") from pocket end. Turn the welt and pocket lining wrong side out through this hole. Serge the seam joining off-set welt. Fix pocket ends on wrong side with double reverse stitch along corner base. Edgestitch welt upper edge and sides. Serge patch pocket outer contour together with pocket lining. Press pocket sides according to pattern. Mark pocket place on front art and topstitch it.
5. Sew the yoke to front part and serge joining seam. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from yoke joining seam.
6. Sew middle back edge. Serge joining seam and press it towards right back part. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from joining seam. Sew back yoke and serge joining seam. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from seam joining yoke.
7. Sew waistband to front part and press joining seam towards waistband. Sew waistband to back part and press joining seam towards waistband.
8. Sew front part lower waistband's side edges and back part lower waistband's side edges together. Serge waistband upper edge.
9. Lay front parts right sides together and coincide yokes, and measure edgings lengths. Sew the zipper to edging. Fold edging at closure segment under and press it.
10. Serge front facing outer edge. Lay front facing on front part right sides together and overstitch along edging (from front part side). Turn edgings to left side and press.
11. Sew shoulder seams and serge them. Press shoulder seams backwards.
12. Serge sleeve elbow edge. Sew sleeve elbow seam up to notch. Press sleeve elbow seam apart and topstitch slit allowance at 0.5 cm on sleeve. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from elbow seam.
13. Sew sleeves into open armholes according to notches. Sew jacket side edge to sleeve lower edge with one stitch, then serge and press backward.
14. Sew inner collar into neckline, fold inner collar open edge and topstitch along seam joining stand-up collar. Make decorative stitch along the collar. Fix front facings at shoulder seams with 1 cm (3/8") stitch.
15. Sew lower waistband middle edge to front facing outer edge, at bottom. Press joining seam and fold it to right side. Overstitch front facing lower corner and garment hem with waistband. Turn edging lower corners right side out and slash them. Press the waistband, making edging of upper waistband and topstitch upper serged edge on seam joining the waistband. Topstitch along edging at 0.5 cm from edging.
16. Fold a cuff wrong side out and overstitch it along outer contour, with upper edge unstitched.
17. Sew upper cuffs to sleeve lower edges. Fold lower cuffs upper edges at 1 cm (3/8") under and topstitch on seam joining upper cuff. Topstitch along cuff contour.
18. Mark buttonholes into cuffs and serge them.