Home / Women / Jackets / #5550 Jacket With Decorative Closure
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight fabrics of natural or/and artificial fibers.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; 14 buttons; lining fabric; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Side Front – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center Front – 2 pieces
6. Front Facing – 2 pieces
7. Lower Collar – 1 piece
8. Upper Collar – 1 piece
9. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
10. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
12. Flap – 4 pieces
13. Placket – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Side Front – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Center Back – 2 pieces
4. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
5. Center Front – 2 pieces
6. Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front, Side Front, Front Yoke, Upper Collar, Flaps.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Center Front, Side Front, Front Yoke, Upper Collar, and Flap with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at Back. Sew darts, press them towards center back.
3. Sew Side Front to Center Front. Press seam open. Sew Front Yoke to assembled Front (Side and Center). Press seam open.
4. Line up Flaps face-to-face and stitch around at three outer sides. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out the Flap to the face side, press. Line up Upper and Lower Collars face-to-face, stitch at outer edge and short side edge, up to the notch. Clip seam allowances in corners. Turn out Collar, press.
5. Cut 4 lips for Pocket with Flap and Lips. Mark pocket placement at each Front. Cut a stripe of fusible interfacing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to reinforce pocket entrance from the wrong side of Front.
Fold each lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press.
Finish Pocket with Flap and Lips at each Front.
Lay 2 pocket lips on front part, raw edges together, pin them along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Sew Pocket Bag to Flap.
Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut the lips! Press slit edges in the direction opposite to entrances. Fold lips inside through the slit to make a neat frame, press; edges of lips must meet at the middle of pocket entrance. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch neatly between upper seam and lower seam ends. Insert Flap into pocket opening and stitch to upper lip.
Sew lower Pocket Bag into the seam of attaching a lower lip.
Align pocket bags, trim if necessary and stitch together at sides and bottom.
Stitch pocket bags on wrong side of flap joining seams allowance and to seams joining lower facings allowance. Adjust pocket bags, trim and stitch around at sides and bottom.
6. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin and stitch along the front edge. You must stitch at Front from the bottom up to the notch for Collar. Stitch bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam exactly at the marked hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edges. Understitch front edges: onto Front Facing, at the closure area; onto Front, at the lapels. Turn out front edges, press.
7. Sew back princess seams. Press allowances open. Sew center back seam. Press allowances open.
8. Sew shoulder and side seams of jacket.
9. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Back.
10. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve; press allowances open. Turn under and press hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve; press allowances open.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seam allowances. Sew stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances at sleeve caps.
12. Assemble lining pieces, leaving an opening in the right front seam of Sleeve.
13. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press neckline allowances open. Staystitch together neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars, to prevent Collar from distorting.
14. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and Sleeve bottoms. Turn the jacket out through the Sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
15. Make buttonholes into right Front.
16. Line up Placket pieces face-to-face, stitch at all sides, leaving an opening of 7 cm (about 3”) at the lower short side. Clip allowances at corners. Turn out the Placket, press. Topstitch the Placket at 0.5 cm from the edge. Mark placement of buttons. Sew buttons.
