Home / Women / Jackets / #5018 Jacket with darts
Difficulty: ***
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
1. Upper pocket’s frame – 2 pieces
2. Lower pocket’s frame – 4 pieces
3. Collar – 2 pieces
4. Back part – 2 pieces
5. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
6. Front part – 2 pieces
7. Front facing – 2 pieces
8. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
9. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
2. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
3. Back part – 2 pieces
4. Front part – 2 pieces
5. Upper pocket’s upper pocket bag – 2 pieces
6. Upper pocket’s lower pocket bag – 2 pieces
7. Lower pocket’s upper pocket bag – 2 pieces
8. Lower pocket’s lower pocket bag
Fusing: apply the fusing to wrong side of front facings. Back neckline facing and front parts.
Instructions:
1. Stitch front/back darts, stitch back middle seam.
2. Cut front slit pockets “in frames”: apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to wrong side of pocket marking. Lay 2 pocket facings on front part, pin them right sides together along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings coincides to pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Press seam facing allowances apart. Fold facings into wrong side through the slit to make a neat frame, then tack. Lay pocket bag on front part’s wrong side, on lower facing (lay pocket bag upward); topstitch lower facing on right side along joining seam catching the pocket bag. Press pocket bag downwards. Fold the allowance of one of valance long edges and topstitch the valance on another pocket bag. Lay another pocket bag on the pocket on front part’s wrong side and stitch it on right side’s seam joining upper facing. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Cut pocket bags, adjust, and stitch them together.
3. Stitch shoulder/side seams.
4. Pin front facings to front edges right side together, overstitch edgings with front facings. Stitch shoulder seams of front facing and back neckline facing.
5. Process the collar neatly along outer contour. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline; stitch outer collar into facing neckline. Press seam allowance apart. Sew pressed allowance of inner collar joining seams and back neckline facing from inside.
6. Sew garment hem under.
7. Sew sleeve seas. Sew sleeves into garment armholes easing them along sleeve caps.
8. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Stitch darts into lining front/back parts, stitch lining details. Stitch lining to sleeve hems, to font bands’ inner edges and back neckline facing. Sew the lining.
10. Make buttonholes into right edge, sew buttons on left one.