Home / Women / Jackets / #5338 Jacket With Buckle Closure
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: wool or blend suit-type fabric, medium-to-light-weight.
You will need: fusible interfacing; large buckle (refer to your pattern for buckle width); 2 small buttons; shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Front - 2 pieces
5. Front Facing – 2 pieces
6. Waistband – 1 piece
7. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining Fabric:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Front, with Front Facing excluded - 2 pieces (Don’t forget to add allowance for sewing Center Front lining to Front Facing!)
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Front Facings, Waistband.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings, Waistband with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold Waistband part in half lengthwise, face side inside, and stitch at one long and one short side. Clip allowances in corners, turn out Waistband to the face side, baste at edges, press. Insert Waistband through the buckle twice (in and out through the other slot), stitch across the end of Waistband, through the main waistband too.
3. Sew center back seam, press allowances open. Sew princess seams of Fronts and Back. Press allowances towards center front/ center back.
4. Line up Front Facing with Front at center front edges, face-to-face, pin together and stitch at front edge, extended waistband, neckline and upper edge of extended stand collar. (Note: you must stitch at Front, with Front Facing underneath). Clip allowances in corners and at curved edges. Turn out front edges, baste fronts along the seams, press.
5. Sew side seams, inserting Waistband piece into left side seam at per pattern marks. Sew shoulder seams. Clip allowance in corner. Press seams open.
6. Line up raw edges at center back of extended Stand Collars, face-to-face. Stitch Stand Collars at center back. Press seam open. Baste and sew neckline edge of Stand Collar into neckline of jacket.
7. Sew elbow and front seams of Sleeves. Press allowances open.
8. Sew Sleeves into armholes as per notches. Hand-sew shoulder pads to allowances of shoulder seam and armhole.
9. Assemble lining parts similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press seams of lining. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings. Sew lining to the Stand Collar at neckline. Press neckline allowances open. Sew together neckline allowances of outer and inner Stand Collars, to prevent Collar from distorting. Sew lining of Sleeves to the bottom edges of sleeves. Sew lining to shell at bottom. Turn the jacket out through the opening left in sleeve seam of lining.
10. Mark and make two buttonholes at the end of left extended Waistband. Sew two buttons inside the right side seam accordingly.