Recommended fabrics: medium-weight suit fabrics.
You will need: fusible interfacing; separating zipper for Front; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for shoulder caps; a buckle.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Right Center Front – 1 piece
2. Left Center Front – 1 piece
3. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Bottom Back – 2 pieces
6. Side Back – 2 pieces
7. Upper Back – 2 pieces
8. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
9. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
10. Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
11. Front Facing – 2 pieces
12. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
14. Pocket Flap– 4 pieces
15. Back Tie 1 – 2 pieces
16. Back Tie 2 – 2 pieces
1. Center Front – 2 pieces
2. Front Yoke – 2 pieces
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Center Back – 2 pieces
5. Back Yoke – 2 pieces
6. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
7. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
9. Side Back – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Right Center Front, Left Center Front, Upper Collar, Flap, pocket reinforcement stripe.
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Right Center Front, Left Center Front, Upper Collar, Flap with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark topstitching lines at Side Fronts as per pattern. Make decorative topstitching at Side Fronts. Sew Front princess seams; press allowances open. Topstitch princess seams at 0.5 cm (3/16") from the seam. Sew Front Yoke to Front. Press seam open and topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
3. Sew Upper Back to the Lower Back. Press seam open. Topstitch at Upper Back 0.5 cm (3/16") from the seam.
4. Sew princess seams of Back. Press allowances open. Topstitch the seams at 0.5 cm.
5. Sew Back Yokes to Back. Press seams open; topstitch at 0.5 cm from the seam.
6. Sew center back seam; press allowances open.
7. Line up Flap parts face-to-face; stitch around at three sides. Clip allowances in corners of Flaps; turn out and press. Line up Stand Collar parts face-to-face; stitch around at three sides. Clip allowances in corners of Collar; turn out and press.
8. Turn extended Placket to the wrong side, press. Sew zipper to the long edge of Placket. Sew another side of zipper to the left Front (NOTE: at the right side, zipper is covered with extended Placket; at the left side, zipper goes along the front edge).
9. Line up Front Facing with Front face-to-face, pin and stitch along the front edge. You must stitch at Front from the bottom up to the notch for Collar. Stitch bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam exactly at the marked hemline. Clip allowances in top and bottom corners of front edges. Turn out front edges, press.
10. Line up Back Ties 1 and 2 pieces face-to-face and stitch around at three sides. Clip allowances in corners; turn out and press the Ties. Apply Back Ties to the notches at Side Back, baste and staystitch 0.5 cm (3/16") from raw edge.
11. Sew shoulder and side seams of garment. Press allowances open.
12. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facing. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of jacket; sew Upper Collar into neckline of Facings. Topstitch the garment along the front edges: at the right Front topstitching goes 0.5 cm (3/16") from the seam of attaching zipper; at left Front, 3.5 cm (1-3/8") from the front edge.
13. Reinforce Front at wrong side with fusible interfacing stripe, at the area of pocket entrance.
Cut 4 lips for Pocket with Flap and Lips. Mark pocket placement at each Front. Cut a stripe of fusible interfacing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to reinforce pocket entrance from the wrong side of Front. Fold each lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press. Finish Pocket with Flap and Lips at each Front.
Lay 2 pocket lips on front part, raw edges together, pin them along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Sew Pocket Bag to Flap. Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut the lips! Press slit edges in the direction opposite to entrances. Fold lips inside through the slit to make a neat frame, press; edges of lips must meet at the middle of pocket entrance. Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch neatly between upper seam and lower seam ends. Insert Flap into pocket opening and stitch to upper lip.
Sew lower Pocket Bag into the seam of attaching a lower lip. Align pocket bags, trim if necessary and stitch together at sides and bottom.
14. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press open. Turn under and press hem allowances of Sleeves. Sew front seam of Sleeve; press allowances open.
15. Sew Sleeves into armholes matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads to shoulder seam allowances. Sew stripes of polyfill to sleeve caps (armhole allowance at sleeve cap).
16. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell. Leave an opening in the front right seam of Sleeve.
17. Sew lining to inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Press allowances of Collars open. Bartack allowances of Collar at neckline, to prevent Collar from rolling.
18. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the opening in Sleeve. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
19. Put on a buckle at Back Ties.