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example - #5013 Jacket preview - #5013 Jacket

Difficulty: ***

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Cutting:

1. Flap – 4 pieces
2. Pocket valance – 2 pieces
3. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
4. Inner collar – 2 pieces
5. Outer collar – 1 folded piece
6. Center back part – 2 pieces
7. Side back part – 2 pieces
8. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
9. Side front part – 2 pieces
10. Front part – 2 pieces
11. Front facing – 2 pieces
12. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
13. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Lining:

1. Pocket bag – 4 pieces
2. Back part – 1 folded piece
3. Front part – 2 pieces
4. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
5. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces

Fusing:

1. Flap – 2 pieces
2. Pocket valance – 2 pieces
3. Pocket facing – 4 pieces
4. Inner collar – 2 pieces
5. Outer collar – 1 folded piece
6. Back shoulder segment – 2 pieces
7. Side back part reinforcement – 2 pieces
8. Back neckline facing – 1 folded piece
9. Back hem allowance – 2 pieces
10. Side back part’s hem allowance – 2 pieces
11. Side front part – 2 pieces
12. Front facing – 2 pieces
13. Upper sleeve allowance – 2 pieces
14. Lower sleeve allowance – 2 pieces
15. Sleeve cap’s reinforcement – 2 pieces

Instructions:

1. Front parts: stitch front princess seams down to front part corners at pocket entrances. Cut allowances at middle/side front parts along perpendicular edges (pocket entrances); make notches in middle front parts’ allowance strictly to the determinant stitch. Press princess seams allowances apart. Tack entrances with crossing stitches coinciding strictly entrance edges.

2. Cut front slit pockets with flaps “in frames”: stitch together one reinforced and one soft flaps together along side/lower edges. Stitch along edges. Apply the stripe of fusing of 4 cm (1-5/8") width to wrong side of pocket marking. Lay 2 pocket facings on front part right sides together, pin them together along pocket entrance marking and stitch. Lengthwise edges of facings coincides to pocket marking middle line! Cut the front part between stitches, cut the fabric diagonally at stitch ends. Do not cut facings! Press slit edges in the direction opposite to entrances. Fold facings into wrong side through the slit so that to make a neat frame; edges of facings must coincide at the middle of pocket entrance. Stitch along joining seam.Turn small triangles at slit ends into wrong side and topstitch accurately between upper stitch ends and lower stitch ends. Fold flaps’ open edges between facings and stitch on seams joining upper facings. Stitch pocket bags on wrong side of flap joining seams’ allowance and to seams joining lower facings’ allowance. Adjust pocket bags, cut them and stitch them.

3. Stitch back princess seams.

4. Stitch shoulder/side seams.

5. Lay front facings on front parts right sides together and pin them to edgings; stitch edgings to front facings. Stitch shoulder seam of front facing and back neckline facing.

6. Stitch inner collar’s middle seam, press allowances apart. Process the collar along outer contour neatly. Stitch inner collar into garment neckline, stitch outer collar into facing neckline. Press seam allowance apart. Sew pressed apart allowances of inner collar and back neckline facing from inside.

7. Sew garment hem.

8. Sew sleeve seams, leave unstitches vents into elbow seams. Make notches above vent marks in lower sleeve allowance. Press allowances apart above vents. Sew sleeve hems under. Press upper sleeves’ vents edges into wrong side. Pin vents, topstitch vent edges one on another on wrong side. Stitch sleeves into armholes easing them along sleeve caps.

9. Sew shoulder pads.

10. Stitch darts into lining front/back part, stitch lining details together. Stitch the lining to sleeve hems, front facings’ inner edges and to back neckline facing. Sew the lining under.

11. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.



Free sewing patterns (PDF) available for download

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