You will need: denim, fusing, 4 buttons, lining
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Center back part - 2 details
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Inner collar - 1 detail
4. Outer collar - 1 detail
5. Side front part - 2 details
6. Center front part - 2 details
7. Front facing - 2 details
8. Upper off-set welt - 1 detail
9. Patch pocket - 2 details
10. Off-set welt - 2 details
11. Sleeve - 2 details
12. Back neckline facing - 1 detail
1. Front part - 2 details
Fusing: front facing, off-set welt, center front part, back neckline facing.
1. Apply the fusing to wrong part of front facing, off-set welt, center front part, back neckline facing.
2. Mark front/back darts. Stitch back dart and press them towards back center. Stitch front darts and slash their depths. Cut pocket entrance. Stitch side front part to center front part and press the seam apart. Stitch pocket entrance together and press it apart. Edgestitch darts.
3. Press upper welt along the center wrong side out. Overstitch welt corners, cut extra fabric and turn the welt right side out. Press ready welt. Topstitch along welt contour at 0.2 cm from edge. Mark bust pocket. Stitch the welt to front part, turn it upwards and topstitch welt's sides.
4. Lay outer collar on inner one and overstitch them. Slash extra fabric in corners, and pres the collar.
5. Press lower pocket welt along the center, wrong side out. Mark off-set welt on pocket. Cut fabric valance. Mark pocket joining line on off-set welt, measuring its width. Lay off-set welt on pocket coinciding marked line. Stitch the welt to pocket. Lay the valance on pocket right side and press it. Check if welt and valance are correctly stitched (on wrong side, stitches must be parallel and distance between them must be equal with ready welt width). Cut pocket entrance. Make diagonal cuts at 1-1.5 cm (3/8" - 5/8") from pocket ends. Turn welt and pocket valance through this hole wrong side out. Fix pocket ends with double reverse stitch on wrong side along corner basis. Serge pocket valance and fix pocket entrance.
Serge patch pocket outer contour. Press patch pocket upper edge and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from upper edge. Press pocket edges according to pattern. Mark pocket place on front part and topstitch reinforcing pocket corners.
6. Lay front facing on front part right side together, pin them together and overstitch along edging (overstitch on front part side up to the notch pointing collar stitch-in end). Cut edging upper corner seams. Remove pins. Serge edge overstitching: at closure segment- on front facing, at lapel segment - on front edging.
7. Stitch middle back seam, serge it and press it. Stitch back princess seams, serge them and pres them. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16") from seams.
8. Mark lining front darts and stitch it. Serge lining front shoulder edge. Press darts. Serge garment back hem. Press garment front/back hem into wrong side. Stitch the lining to front facing outer edge and overstitch front part lower edge with lining.
9. Stitch side edges together, turning back hem to back part right side so that front part became inserted into back hem. Serge side edges, fold back hem into back part wrong side, and press.
10. Serge garment shoulder seams, stitches them together and press apart. Stitch shoulder edges of front facing and facing. Press seams apart and stitch outer collar into facing neckline, and inner collar sew into front/back neckline. Press collar joining seam's allowances apart and fix them close to seams. Fix lining shoulder edge allowance with garment shoulder edge.
11. Serge sleeve edge. Serge sleeve lower edge and press it into wrong side. Fold sleeve hem allowance into right side and overstitch slit corners. Fold sleeve hem into wrong side into wrong side and topstitch it.
12. Stitch sleeves into armholes according to notches. Topstitch at 0.5 cm from edging, along collar contour and garment hem. Remove tacking.
13. Make buttonholes into right front part, sew buttons on left one.