Home / Women / Jackets / #5548 Collarless Jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: woolen medium-weight fabrics, or blends.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; separating zipper (refer to your pattern for zipper length); lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for sleeve caps.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
6. Front Facing – 2 pieces
7. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lining:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front – 2 pieces
4. Side Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facings, Back Neckline Facing.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark placement of bust dart at Front. Sew the darts. Press darts downwards. Sew princess seams of Fronts. Press seams open.
3. Sew center back seam. Press seam open. Sew princess seams of Back. Press seams open.
4. Line up Fronts to make sure front edges are equal in length. Cut off extra if necessary. Separate zipper. Sew each side of zipper to corresponding front edge of Front. Turn under raw front edges of Fronts, press.
5. Line up Front Facings with jacket at neckline and front edges, pin. Sew Front Facings to neckline (only 1-2” from front edges) and front edges, stitching at Fronts, not Facings. Sew bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam, going exactly at level of hemline. Clip allowances in upper and lower corners of front edges. Turn the Facings to the wrong side. Press jacket at front edges. Topstitch Fronts at 0.5 cm (3/16”).
6. Sew side and shoulder seams of jacket. Press seams open.
7. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facings. Press seams open. Pin Facings to neckline of jacket. Sew neckline. Clip allowances. Turn the Facing to the wrong side, press neckline.
8. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve. Press seam open. Press under hem allowance of Sleeve. Sew front seam of Sleeve. Press seam open.
9. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads. Sew stripes of polyfill to armhole allowances at sleeve cap.
10. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam of sleeve.
11. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing.
12. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.