Home / Women / Jackets / #5547 3/4-Sleeve Jacket
Difficulty: **
Recommended fabrics: medium-weight suit-type fabrics.
You will need: shell fabric; fusible interfacing; lining; shoulder pads; stripes of polyfill for shoulder caps; 3 buttons.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Shell:
1. Pocket – 4 pieces
2. Center Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Back – 2 pieces
4. Collar – 2 pieces
5. Lapel – 2 pieces
6. Side Front – 2 pieces
7. Middle Front – 2 pieces
8. Center Front – 2 pieces
9. Front Facing – 2 pieces
10. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
11. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
12. Sleeve Bottom Facing– 2 pieces
13. Back Neckline Facing – 1 pieces
Lining:
1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Side Front – 2 pieces
4. Middle Front – 2 pieces
5. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel, Center Front, Sleeve Bottom Facing.
Instructions:
1. Reinforce Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel, Center Front, Sleeve Bottom Facing with fusible interfacing.
2. Mark darts’ placement at Back. Sew darts, press them towards center back.
3. Sew Lapel to Collar, press seam open.
4. Sew center back seam. Press seam open. Sew princess seams of Fronts and Back. Press seams open.
5. Mark placement of Pockets at Fronts. Line up every 2 Pockets face-to-face and stitch together all around, leaving an opening about 2” in one of the seams. Clip allowances in rounded corners. Turn out the Pocket to the face side, press. Apply and topstitch Pocket to Front.
6. Sew side and shoulder seams. Press seams open.
7. Sew Lower Collar with Lapel into the neckline of jacket. Press seam open.
8. Sew shoulder seams of Back Neckline Facing and Front Facing. Sew Upper Collar with Lapel into neckline of Facings. Press seam open.
9. Line up Front Facing and Front at front edges, face-to-face, pin together and stitch at front edge, lapel and collar. You must stitch at the Front, not Facing. Sew bottom of Front Facing to Front with a horizontal seam, going exactly at level of hemline. Clip allowances in upper and lower corners of front edges. Understitch front edge seam: to Front Facing at the closure area; to Front, at lapel area. Turn front edges to the face side, press.
10. Sew elbow seam of Sleeve, leaving an opening for slit. Press elbow seam open, press the slit. Sew front seam of sleeve. Press seam open. Line up Sleeve Bottom Facing with Sleeve at bottom, pin and stitch together. Clip allowances, turn the Facing inside, press Sleeve bottom and slit.
11. Sew Sleeves into armholes, matching the notches. Sew shoulder pads. Sew stripes of polyfill to the armhole allowances of Sleeve caps.
12. Assemble lining pieces similar to shell, leaving an opening in the right front seam of sleeve.
13. Sew lining to the inside edges of Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing. Staystitch neckline allowances of Upper and Lower Collars, to prevent Collar from distorting.
14. Sew lining to the bottom of jacket and sleeves. Turn the jacket out through the sleeve opening. Stitch to close sleeve opening.
15. Mark buttonholes placement at right Front. Work buttonholes into right Front. Sew buttons to left Fronts accordingly.