Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: coat fabric (wool blend), lining fabric, fusible interfacing, raglan shoulder pads, 1 open-end zipper (zipper length will depend on your pattern – measure front edge and choose zipper length accordingly); 2 zippers 18 cm long (7“).
1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece with fold
3. Front Facing - 2 pieces
4. Collar - 2 pieces
5. Center Front - 2 pieces
6. Side Front - 2 pieces
7. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
8. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
9. Cuff - 4 pieces
Lining: prepare paper patterns before cutting:
Cut off Back Neck Facing from the Back, add 1 cm (3/8”) deep pleat at center back for better fit;
Join Center and Side Front pieces into one piece, cut off Front Facing piece;
Cut Back Neck Facing and Front Facing areas from Sleeves parts.
10. Pocket Lining - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: using hot iron, reinforce the wrong side of Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, Collar, Cuffs, and hem allowances.
1. Sew center back seam. Press seam open.
2. Sew vertical front seams of Center and Side Front pieces, leaving open pocket area. Press seams open. Place zipper under pocket entrance and baste so that the zipper coil is not visible. Topstitch Fronts along vertical seams and pocket entrance edge facing front at 1 cm (3/8”). Sew one Pocket Lining to seam allowance of Center Front at pocket entrance; sew another Pocket lining to seam allowance of Side Front at pocket entrance. Baste Pocket Lining pieces together, trim and sew.
3. Sew raglan seams of Front and Back, topstitch at 1 cm (3/8”).
4. Sew upper sleeve seams, topstitch at 1 cm(3/8”). Sew bottom sleeve seams and side seams of the coat.
5. Attach shoulder pads.
6. Separate sides of the long zipper, turn under tape ends at top of the zipper. Place each of two zipper tapes onto front edge of Front piece, face-to-face, so that the coil is outside and tape edge matches front raw edge. Attach zipper tapes to Fronts, starting sewing from the neckline.
7. Sew lower Collar piece into coat neckline. Sew shoulder seams of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Sew upper Collar piece into neckline of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Press seams open, clip allowances where curved.
8. Place upper Collar along with Front Facings onto the coat face-to-face. Stitch along the front edge and outer collar edge. Turn out, press. Hand-stitch allowance of upper Collar to neckline to prevent Collar from rolling. Baste Front and Front Facing together along the front edge.
9. At hem, place Front Facing onto Front face-to-face, and sew. Turn Front Facings out, press at hem. Topstitch Fronts and Collar at 1 cm (3/8”).
10. Assemble Cuffs: place two Cuff pieces face-to-face and stitch at top edge. Lay Cuff flat, match short edges, pin and sew. Press seam open. Fold each Cuff in half, wrong sides together, and topstitch the fold/seam at 1 cm (3/8”). Place one raw edge of Cuff face-to-face with sleeve hem, attach. Press seam open. Press under (inside the sleeve) another raw edge of the Cuff.
11. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to raw edges of Cuffs (at wrists), inside Front Facing edges and Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining.