Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Collar – 2 pieces
2. Sleeve Tab – 4 pieces
3*. Back - 1 piece with fold
4*. Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
5*. Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
6. Back Neck Facing – 1 piece with fold
7. Front Facing – 2 pieces
8. Pocket Flap – 4 pieces
9*. Front – 2 pieces
Parts marked with * must also be cut out of lining fabric.
Front – 2 pieces with Front Facing area removed
Back – 1 piece with fold and a pleat 2 cm (3/4”) deep added at center back for better fit. Remove Back Neck Facing area from your Back piece at neckline.
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces with Front Facing area removed
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces with Back Neck Facing area removed
10. Upper Pocket Lining - 2 pieces
11. Lower Pocket Lining - 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: fuse to Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, lower halves of Pocket Flaps, hem allowances.
1.Vertical Flap Pockets. Assemble Pocket Flaps: place 2 flap pieces face-to-face, stitch at three sides, turn out, press. Topstitch the Flap at 1.5 cm (5/8”). Fuse a stripe of interfacing about 4 cm (1-5/8”) onto wrong side of Front at the pocket entrance area.
Place Flap and upper Pocket Lining onto Front face-to-face, pin along pocket entrance and sew. Place lower Pocket Lining onto Front to meet the Flap at a center line of pocket entrance, pin and sew. Cut the Front at pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Don’t cut Flap and Pocket Lining by accident! Press seam allowances open. Turn Pocket Lining pieces inside the pocket entrance and baste. Topstitch Flap at the seam attaching it to the Front.
On the wrong side of fabric, small triangles at the corners of pocket entrance must be sewn to pocket facings right between upper and lower seams of pocket frame. Trim Pocket Linings to even them, sew together. Topstitch Flap onto Front at Flap’s short sides.
2. Sew raglan seams of Fronts and Back, topstitch them at 1.5 cm (5/8”).
3. Assemble Sleeve Tabs: place two pieces of tabs face-to-face, pin and sew around at three sides. Turn out, turn in the raw edge, and press. Topstitch the Sleeve Tabs at 1.5 cm (5/8”).
4. Sew upper sleeve seams, inserting Sleeve Tabs into the seams. Sew lower sleeve seams along with side seams of the coat.
5. Sew Front Facings to Back Neck Facing at shoulders. Place Front Facings and onto Fronts, face-to-face, and attach. Press seam open.
6. Assemble the Collar: place two Collar pieces face-to-face, pin and sew at outer edge. Press open. Set lower collar into coast neckline. Set upper Collar into neckline of Back Neck Facing. Press seam allowances open. Baste seam allowances of Inner Collar and Back Neck Facing.
7. Hemming: Turn Front Facings to the wrong side, sew at hem. Turn hem allowances to the wrong side, sew. Turn Front Facings back. Topstitch front edge and collar outer edge at 1.5 cm (5/8”).
8. Attach shoulder pads.
9. Sew together lining pieces. Sew lining to lower sleeve edges (at wrists), to inside Front Facing edges and Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining.
10. Make buttonholes into right Front, sew buttons to the left Front.