Home / Women / Coats / #5007 Long Coat with One-Piece-Cut Sleeve
Difficulty: ***
You will need: woolen or wool blend fabric for coat; lining; fusible interfacing; 5 buttons; raglan shoulder pads.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting Pieces (coat fabric):
Back – 1 piece with fold
Front - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front Facing – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces (each with fold)
Back Neck Facing – 1 piece with fold
Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Pocket Lining – 4 pieces
Lining:
Back – 1 piece with fold, with Back Neck Facing area removed (cut off)
Front – 2 pieces, with Front Facing area removed
Back Sleeve – 2 pieces
Front Sleeve – 2 pieces
Fusible Interfacing: fuse interfacing to Front Facings, Collars, Back Neck Facing, Pocket Flaps, coat hem allowances.
Instructions:
1. Sew back seams, attaching Back Sleeve pieces to Back. Topstitch back seam.
2. Assemble pockets with flaps. Sew Pocket Lining piece onto Front according to pocket placement markings. Assemble Flaps: place two Flap pieces face-to-face, sew, clip seam allowances, turn, press. Place flap at bottom horizontal edge of Front Sleeve piece (the Flap must be directed upward). On top of Flap, place second Pocket Lining, baste. Stitch Flap and Pocket Lining to Front Sleeve piece. Press Flap and Pocket Lining down, press seam allowances up. Stitch together Front and Front Sleeve pieces, stitching both Pocket Linings at the same time. Topstitch Front at this last seam. Baste Pocket Linings to Fronts.
3. Sew shoulder/top sleeve seams.
4. Sew Lower Collar piece into coat neckline. Sew together Front Facings and Back Neck Facing at shoulder seams. Sew Top Collar into neckline of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing.
5. Place Front Facings to Fronts face-to-face, pin. Pin Top and Lower Collar pieces as well. Sew Fronts and Collar all the way, from hem to hem. Press open seam allowances of setting collar pieces into necklines. Baste together these seam allowances to keep collar from rolling.
6. Make side seams and lower sleeve seams at the same time.
7. Hem the sleeves.
8. Sew shoulder pads.
9. Assemble lining. Sew lining to inside edge of Front Facings and Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining.
10. Make buttonholes into the right Front. Sew buttons at left Front.
