Home / Women / Coats / #5317 Double breasted coat
Difficulty: ***
Recommended fabrics: gabardine.
You will need: fusible interfacing; 12 buttons; smaller buttons, for sleeve vent; lining.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Cutting:
Fabric:
1. Center back part – 2 details
2. Back neckline facing – 1 detail
3. Collar – 2 detail
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Front facing – 2 details
6. Side front part – 2 details
7. Side back part – 2 details
8. Upper sleeve – 2 details
9. Lower sleeve – 2 details
10. Belt – 2 details
Lining:
1. Center back part – 1 detail
2. Side back part - 2 details
3. Side front part – 2 details
4. Center front part – 2 details
5. Bag –4 details
6. Upper sleeve – 2 details
7. Lower sleeve – 2 details
Fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline interfacing, center front part, side front part armhole, side back part armhole, vent segment, inner collar; hem allowances: center back part, side back part, lower sleeve, side front part, upper sleeve.
Instructions:
1. Strengthen the front part, back neckline, center front part, side front part armhole, inner collar, vent segment, side back part armhole; hem allowances: center back part, side front part, side back part, lower sleeve and upper sleeve with fusible interfacing.
2. Overstitch inner collar with outer one (right sides together) on the collar fall side. Cut collar corners, hen turn them right side out.
3. Fold the belt right sides together, then overstitch it along all four sides, with the hole into upper seam in the center of the belt. Turn the belt right side out, the press and sew the hole in the center.
4. Sew princess seams with pocket entrance unstitched.
5. Fold right side of center front part and side front part with the bag according the notches and then sew. Fold the seam and topstitch on the bag. Sew and oversew the bag. Make a notch at the pocket entrance, press front part princess seams apart and press the pocket into the center.
6. Pin the front facing and front part right sides together, then overstitch along the marked line. Overstitch on the front part upwards the notch defining the end of collar sewing into. Sew front facings lower edges to front part strictly along marked hemline. Cut upper and lower seams corners. Overstitch the front facing work seam allowance: at zipper area – into the front facing, on lapels area – into the front part edge, on 0.2 cm (1/16") width from the seam. Turn the edges into right side, fit seams.
7. Sew back princess seams and then press apart.
8. Sew back center seam. Press lower vent edge on 1 cm (3/8"). Press back center and the vent into back center. Topstitch back center seam near vent upper end along diagonal marking, catching vent allowance.
9. Sew neckline facing shoulder edges and front facing.
10. Sew shoulder and side seams, then press seams apart.
11. Sew inner collar to neckline. Sew outer collar to front facing with facing.
12. Sew sleeve elbow edge, then press apart. Sew sleeve front seam, them press apart. Press sleeve hem under.
13. Sew sleeves into armholes according to notches. Sew shoulder pads and sleeve heads into.
14. Sew lining sleeve seams, then sew the sleeves into, with the holes into front right seam of sleeves. Press the lining. Sew the lining to front facing and outer collar inner edges. Press collar joining seam allowances apart and fix sew near seams.
15. Fold under lining sleeves and sew them to sleeve hem; turn the extra lining under and press it. Turn the coat right side out. Pin side seams of lining with fabric ones, then cut preciously along edge vent, 1 cm from the center seam. On 1 cm (3/8") below the vent top, make diagonal slits of 1 cm in both sides. Turn the slits into and pin with vent edges. Between fabric and lining, pull pinned edges outside by one. Sew edges and turn the hem allowance under. Fit vent edges. Turn vent top lining corner and sew it to vent allowance. Sew lining to fabric coat hem. Turn the coat right side out through holes of the sleeves. Sew holes in the sleeves.
16. Work buttonholes into right front part, and sew buttons to left one.