Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: coat fabric (wool, wool blend, boucle) ; lining fabric; fusible interfacing, 4 buttons, raglan shoulder pads.
1. Back - 2 pieces
2. Back Neck Facing - 1 piece
3. Center Front - 2 pieces
4. Side Front - 2 pieces
5. Front Facing - 2 pieces
6. Right Hood - 2 pieces
7. Left Hood - 2 pieces
8. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
9. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
10. Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
11. Sleeve Cuff - 2 pieces
12. Cuff Facing - 2 pieces
13. Sleeve Cuff - 2 pieces
14. Back - 2 pieces
15. Front - 2 pieces
16. Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
17. Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
18. Pocket Lining - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: using hot iron, fuse interfacing to wrong side of Front Facings, Back Neck Facing, lower halves of Pocket Welts, Cuff Facings, and hem allowances.
1.Fold Pocket Welt lengthwise, stitch short ends of Welt. Turn out and press. Topstitch Welt at three sides at 1.0 cm (3/8”) distance from edges. Match raw edges of Welt with raw edge of Center Front at pocket entrance (note the notches), face-to-face. On top of Welt, place upper Pocket Lining, baste all three pieces.
2. On face side of Side Front, place lower Pocket Welt, baste. Attach (sew) Welt and Pocket Linings to Fronts along pocket entrance. Sew vertical front seams (of Side Front and Center Front).
3. Turn Pocket Linings inside the coat, trim to fit each other and sew them together. At face side of coat, topstitch short sides of Pocket Welt onto Side Front right into the seam of existing Welt topstitching.
4. Sew Front Sleeves to Fronts of the coat; sew Back Sleeves to Backs.
5. Sew shoulder/top sleeve seams. Sew side/ lower sleeve seams.
6. Sew Front Facings to Back Neck Facings at shoulders. Place Front Facings/ Back Neck Facing Unit onto the coat, face-to-face, baste and stitch along the front edges (but NOT the neckline).
7. Assemble hood with scarf.
Sew together Right Hood and Left Hood to get outer Hood unit. Topstitch. Sew together Right Hood and Left Hood to get inner Hood unit. Place inner Hood into outer Hood face-to-face, baste and sew at all outer edges, including scarf (start at neckline notch, finish at another neckline notch). Turn the hood out and press. Sew outer hood into coat neckline; sew inner hood into Front Facing/Back Neck Facing neckline. Press seam allowances open. Inside the coat, stitch together neckline seam allowances to prevent hood from rolling.
8. Fold Cuff piece of coat fabric to match short ends, face side inside. Stitch along the short ends to form a “ring”. Press seam allowances open. Repeat with Cuff pieces of lining fabric. Place lining Cuff into coat fabric Cuff, face-to-face, matching pieces at the upper edge, pin and stitch along the upper edge. Press open, turn out and topstitch Cuffs at 1.5 cm (5/8”). Sew hem edge of lining Cuff piece to Cuff Facing. Press seam allowances open, topstitch. Sew Cuff Facing to the Sleeve hem.
9. Coat hem. Turn out the Front Facings and place them onto Fronts face-to-face. Turn under hem allowances and sew. Turn Front Facings back and topstitch front edges of coat, scarves and hood at 1.5 cm (5/8”).
10. Attach shoulder pads.
11. Sew together pieces of lining. Sew lining to hem edges of sleeve Cuffs, inside edges of Front Facings and to Back Neck Facing. Hem the lining (turn under twice and sew).
12. Make buttonholes into the right Front, sew buttons onto left Front.