You will need: gabardine; lining (mesh); 1 separable zipper; 1 metallic zipper; 2 clasps, Velcro.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
1. Back stripe – 2 pieces
2. Front stripe – 2 pieces
3. Back yoke – 1 folded piece
4. Back part – 1 folded piece
5. Right upper pocket – 1 piece
6. Right upper pocket flap – 2 pieces
7. Right lower pocket – 1 piece
8. Right lower pocket flap – 2 pieces
9. Left lower pocket – 1 piece
10. Pen pocket – 1 piece
11. Front part – 2 pieces
12. Left upper pocket – 1 piece
13. Left lower pocket’s lower-side part – 1 piece
14. Right lower pocket’s lower side part – 1 piece
15. Right upper pocket’s lower-side part – 1 piece
16. Pocket entrance facing – 1 piece
1. Back yoke – 1 folded piece
2. Back part – 1 folded piece
3. Front part – 2 pieces
1. Press left upper pen pocket allowances into wrong side along the perimeter. Mark vertical middle line on the pocket and topstitch the pocket on left upper pocket along this line. Then topstitch pen pocket side edges on coinciding line.
2. Press left upper pocket’s allowance into wrong side and topstitch it. Press allowances along front/lower edges of pocket into wrong side. Cut a small piece of Velcro braid. Stitch napped piece under pocket upper edge along rectangle perimeter and along diagonals. Pin the pocket on left front part along coinciding lines and mark the place of Velcro piece with hooks. Turn pocket upper edge downwards and topstitch Velcro piece with hooks on front part. Topstitch the pocket along front/lower edges; tack pocket side edge.
3. Pin pocket entrance facing on left lower pocket’s lower-side part right sides together and stitch along the marking. Cut facing and lower-side part between stitches, diagonally to corners’ tops. Pull the facing into wrong side, press pocket entrance’s edges. Stitch metallic zipper under pocket entrance (teeth hidden). Stitch lower edges of lower-side part. Stitch lower-side part to outer edges of left lower pocket slashing lower-side part allowance at pocket corners. Lay lower-side part under the pocket, topstitch edges. Press the allowance of lower-side part’s open lengthwise edge into wrong side, topstitch left front part along this edge; note coinciding lines. Lay pocket lower edge on the seam joining lower-side part and press it. Then fold lower-side part’s sides into wrong side, lay pocket’s edges on the seam at bottom and press them. Do not press pocket’s upper part.
4. Press upper edge allowance of both right pockets into wrong side. Press allowances of short edges of both right pockets into wrong side and topstitch them. Stitch lower-side pocket to pocket side/lower edges right sides together slashing lower-side part’s allowance at pocket lower corners. Lay lower-side part under the pocket, topstitch pocket edges. Press lengthwise edge allowance of pocket lower-side part into wrong side. Lay pocket edges on pressed edge of lower-side part and press them. Topstitch lower-side part on right front part; topstitch lower-side parts of lower pockets close to each other.
5. Lay right pockets’ flaps in pairs right sides together, overstitch them along side edges/lower edge and topstitch it. Topstitch napped pieces of Velcro under flaps. Stitch flaps to right front part according to marks. Press flaps downwards and topstitch near joining seam. Topstitch pieces of Velcro with hooks on pockets.
6. Stitch back middle seam. Press seam allowance leftwards, topstitch back left detail along the seam. Stitch back yoke to back part, press seam allowance towards the yoke, topstitch the yoke.
7. Stitch side seams.
8. Fold each front/back stripes along the center and overstitch them along lengthwise ends and one of short edges. Topstitch stripes along edges. Pull overstitched end of stripes into clasps and topstitch them. Fold open ends of stripes under and topstitch them on front part and back part along square perimeter and along diagonals. Pull overstitches ends of back stripes into clasps.
9. Stitch mesh lining details excluding shoulder sees. Lay the lining on the garment right sides together and stitch lower edges, neckline edges and armholes edges together; stop stitching 1 cm (3/8") before edges. Turn the waistcoat right side out, process seams and press. Pull shoulder seams through unstitched edge of front facings, stitch them together.
10. Press edging allowances into wrong side. Stitch braid of separable zipper under edging allowance.
11. Topstitch along armhole edges, neckline and hem.