Recommended fabrics: lightweight cottons or cotton/polyester blends
You will need: Fabric for shirt; about 60 cm (24") of fusible interfacing 0.9 m (0.98yd) wide; 11 buttons 1.2 cm (4-3/4") in diameter.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Back - 1 piece
Front - 2 pieces
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Yoke - 2 pieces
Collar Stand - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Sleeve Vent Facing - 2 pieces
Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Pocket - 2 pieces
Cuff - rectangle 25 (26-27-28)cm ? 7 cm (10" (10-1/4"x10-5/8"x11-3/8") x 2-3/4") - 4 pieces
Fusible interfacing: Collar (1 pc), Collar Stand (1 pc), Cuffs (4 pcs).
1. Reinforce upper Collar, outer Collar Stand with fusible interfacing. Reinforce outer piece of each Cuff with two layers of fusible.
2. Turn under and press allowance at top edge of Breast Pocket. Turn under raw edge and topstitch the top edge of Pocket.
3. Turn under and press raw edges at sides and bottom of Pocket. Mark Pocket placement at the left Front, according to pattern markings. Apply Pocket to Front, baste at sides at bottom. Double-topstitch Pocket onto Front, making bartacks at the ends of seam.
4. Line up pieces of Flap face-to-face, stitch at outer sides. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out the Flap to the face side. Press and double-topstitch the Flaps.
5. Apply Flap, directed upward, onto Front as per pattern marking; stitch Flap onto Front along the raw edge. Trim raw edge allowance down to 0.5 cm (3/16"). Press Flap downwards and double-topstitch it onto Front along the previous seam.
6. Turn under extended front facing at each Front; press. Turn under allowance of front facing, press. Double-topstitch the Front along the front edge and at the fold of front facing.
7. Fold pleats at Back as per pattern markings, press. Baste pleats at raw edge.
8. Line up Yokes face-to-face. Insert top edge of Back between them, matching the notches; stitch together along the edge. Turn out; press and double-topstitch the seam.
9. Sew Yoke to the Fronts. Line up Upper Yoke with corresponding Front face-to-face; stitch together along the edge. Turn out, press allowances towards Yoke. Turn under raw edge of Lower Yoke and baste it to the seam of Front/Yoke. Topstitch the seam of Front/Yoke, fastening Lower Yoke at the same time. Make a second topstitching 0.5 cm (3/16") apart from previous. Press. Repeat with another Front.
10. Sew side seams down to the notch for side vent, taking the pieces face-to-face. Press allowances towards Back. Trim off half of the allowance of Back. Fold a wider allowance around a smaller one, baste to Back. Make a double-topstitching along side seam, fastening allowances at the same time.
11. Sleeve Vent: pin Sleeve Vent Facing face side to the wrong side of Sleeve, along two sides of vent (mark the vent as per pattern). Cut Sleeve Vent between the seams. Turn under raw edge of Facing twice. Stitch Facing to Sleeve.
12. Sew under-sleeve seams, taking the pieces face-to-face. Press allowances towards back of Sleeve. Trim off half of the allowance of back area of Sleeve. Fold a wider allowance around a smaller one, baste to back of sleeve. Make a double-topstitching along under-sleeve seams, fastening allowances at the same time.
13. Sew Sleeve into open armhole, matching the notches. Press seam allowances towards armhole (not sleeve). Trim off seam allowances of armhole ONLY down to 0.5 cm (3/16"). Fold Sleeve allowances around armhole allowances, baste together to the armhole. Double-topstitch at the armhole, fastening allowances at the same time.
14. Assemble Collar with Stand.
Reinforce one piece of Collar and one of Collar Stand with fusible interfacing.
Line up pieces of Collar face-to-face and stitch together at outer sides. Turn out to the face side, press. Topstitch finished edges of Collar at 0.5 cm (3/16").
Line up two pieces of Collar Stand face sides together, inserting Collar in between, so that reinforced Collar Stand matches reinforced Collar. Stitch together Collar Stands with inserted Collar. Turn out to the face side. Clip allowances at curves. Press. Turn under and press raw edges at bottom of Collar Stand. Insert neckline of garment between Collar Stands; baste together.
Double-topstitch Collar Stands with inserted neckline together. Double-topstitch all around the Collar Stand.
15. Fold pleats at bottom of Sleeve as per pattern markings. Press to the side as directed in pattern. Baste together raw edges at bottom of Sleeve.
16. Line up reinforced Cuff with non-reinforced Cuff face-to-face. Stitch together at three outer edges. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out to the face side; press.
Apply reinforced side of Cuff to the bottom edge of Sleeve, face-to-face, and stitch together. Turn down the Cuff; press seam allowances inside the Cuff.
Turn under and press allowance of inside (non-reinforced) Cuff; baste to previous seam. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam to attach inside Cuff.
Double-topstitch the Cuff all around.
17. Turn under bottom hem allowance of shirt, press. Turn under raw edge of hemming and side vent, press and topstitch along bottom hem and front sides of each side vent. Backtack across the top of side vent.
18. Mark buttonholes at the left Front, Collar Stand and Cuffs as per pattern. Work buttonholes into the shirt. Sew buttons accordingly.