Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Recommended fabrics: lightweight cottons or cotton/polyester blends
You will need: Plaid fabric for shirts; about 40 cm of fusible interfacing 1.4 m wide; 9 buttons 1.3 cm in diameter; 5 buttons 0.9 cm (0.98yd) in diameter.
Back - 1 piece
Left Front - 1 piece
Yoke - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Collar Stand - 2 pieces
Pocket - 1 piece
Sleeve Vent Facing - 2 pieces
Cuff - 4 pieces
Right Front - 1 piece
Fusible interfacing: Collar (1 pc), Collar Stand (1 pc) and Cuffs (2 pcs).
1. Reinforce upper Collar, outer Collar Stand and outer piece of each Cuff with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold pleat at Back as per pattern markings, press. Baste pleat at raw edge.
3. Embroider a monogram at Breast Pocket, if you wish. You might want to use a ready-made application instead (that is being fused onto fabric).
4. Turn under raw edge at top of Pocket, press. Turn top allowance of Pocket to the wrong side (face sides together), and stitch down. Turn out top edge to the face side; topstitch along the top edge of Pocket.
5. Turn under and press raw edges at sides and bottom of Pocket. Mark Pocket placement at the left Front, according to pattern markings. Apply Pocket to Front, baste at sides at bottom. Edgestitch Pocket onto Front, making bartacks at the ends of seam.
6. Turn under and press allowance along front edge of right Front. Turn extended placket of right Front to the wrong side; press and topstitch.
7. Turn under and press extended placket of left Front to the wrong side at the thick line of paper pattern. Form a pleat 0.5 cm wide along front edge as if it’s a fake cut-off Placket; press the pleat. Insert raw edge at the wrong side of Placket into the pleat; baste along the pleat. Topstitch along the pleat, fastening the inner raw edge of placket. Topstitch along the front edge at 0.5 cm. Press left Placket.
8. Line up Yokes face-to-face. Insert top edge of Back between them, matching the notches; stitch together along the edge. Turn out; press and topstitch the seam.
9. Sew Yoke to the Fronts. Line up Upper Yoke with corresponding Front face-to-face; stitch together along the edge. Turn out, press allowances towards Yoke. Turn under raw edge of Lower Yoke and baste it to the seam of Front/Yoke. Topstitch the seam of Front/Yoke, fastening Lower Yoke at the same time. Press. Repeat with another Front.
10. Assemble Collar with Stand. Reinforce one piece of Collar and one of Collar Stand with fusible interfacing. Line up pieces of Collar face-to-face and stitch together at outer sides. Turn out to the face side, press. Topstitch finished edges of Collar at 0.5 cm. Line up two pieces of Collar Stand face sides together, inserting Collar in between, so that reinforced Collar Stand matches reinforced Collar. Stitch together Collar Stands with inserted Collar. Turn out to the face side. Clip allowances at curves. Press. Turn under and press raw edges at bottom of Collar Stand. Insert neckline of garment between Collar Stands; baste together. Edgestitch Collar Stands with inserted neckline together. Edgestitch all around the Collar Stand.
11. Sew Sleeve into open armhole, matching the notches. Press seam allowances towards armhole (not sleeve). Trim off seam allowances of armhole ONLY down to 0.5 cm. Fold Sleeve allowances around armhole allowances, baste together to the armhole. Topstitch at the armhole, fastening allowances at the same time.
12. Sleeve Vent: pin Sleeve Vent Facing face side to the wrong side of Sleeve, along two sides of vent (mark the vent as per pattern). Cut Sleeve Vent between the seams. Turn under raw edge of Facing twice. Stitch Facing to Sleeve.
13. Fold pleats at bottom of Sleeve as per pattern markings. Press to the side as directed in pattern. Baste together raw edges at bottom of Sleeve.
14. Sew side and under-sleeve seams at one go, taking the pieces face-to-face. Press allowances towards Back. Trim off half of the allowance of Back and back area of Sleeve. Fold a wider allowance around a smaller one, baste to Back and Sleeve. Make a double-topstitching along side and under-sleeve seams, fastening allowances at the same time.
15. Line up reinforced Cuff with non-reinforced Cuff face-to-face. Stitch together at three outer edges. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out to the face side; press. Apply reinforced side of Cuff to the bottom edge of Sleeve, face-to-face, and stitch together. Turn down the Cuff; press seam allowances inside the Cuff. Turn under and press allowance of inside (non-reinforced) Cuff; baste to previous seam. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam to attach inside Cuff. Topstitch the Cuff all around at 0.5 cm. Topstitch the seam of attaching Cuff to Sleeve with additional decorative seam 1.0 cm wide.
16. Turn under bottom hem allowance of shirt, press. Turn under raw edge of hemming, press and topstitch along bottom hem.
17. Mark buttonholes at the left Front, Collar Stand and Cuffs as per pattern. Work buttonholes into the shirt. Sew buttons accordingly.