Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Recommended fabrics: lightweight cottons or cotton/polyester blends
You will need: Plaid cotton fabric; about 80 cm of fusible interfacing 90 cm wide; 6 buttons 1.0 cm in diameter; 8 buttons 0.8 cm in diameter.
Back - 1 piece
Left Front - 1 piece
Sleeve - 2 pieces
Yoke - 2 pieces
Collar Stand - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Cuff - 4 pieces
Sleeve Vent Facing - 2 pieces
Right Front - 1 piece
Left Breast Pocket - 1 piece
Note: If you plan to use plaid fabric, pi????, pin paper parts onto fabric, matching the plaid pattern.
Fusible Interfacing: Cuffs (two outer parts only); Extended Left Front Placket; Right Front Facing; Collar Stand (inner part only); Upper Collar.
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing: Cuffs (two outer parts only; use two layers of fusible for each piece of Cuff); Extended Left Front Placket; Right Front Facing; Collar Stand (inner part only); Upper Collar.
2. Turn under and press allowance at top edge of Breast Pocket. Turn under raw edge and topstitch the top edge of Pocket.
3. Embroider a monogram at Breast Pocket, if you wish. You might want to use a ready-made application instead (that is being fused onto fabric).
4. Turn under and press raw edges at sides and bottom of Breast Pocket. Mark Pocket placement at the left Front, according to pattern markings. Apply Pocket to Front, baste at sides at bottom. Edgestitch Pocket onto Front, making bartacks at the ends of seam.
5. Turn under and press allowance along front edge of right Front. Turn extended placket of right Front to the wrong side; press and topstitch.
6. Turn under and press extended placket of left Front to the wrong side at the thick line of paper pattern. Form a pleat along front edge as if it’s a fake cut-off Placket; press the pleat. Insert raw edge at the wrong side of Placket into the pleat; baste along the pleat. Topstitch along the pleat, fastening the inner raw edge of placket. Topstitch along the front edge at 0.75 cm. Press left Placket.
7. Fold Back lengthwise along the center back, wrong sides together, and stitch down the pleat for about 1”. Open the Back, press open allowances of the pleat. Baste raw edges at top of Back.
8. Line up Yokes face-to-face. Insert top edge of Back between them, matching the notches; stitch together along the edge. Turn out; press and topstitch the seam.
9. Sew Yoke to the Fronts. Line up Upper Yoke with corresponding Front face-to-face; stitch together along the edge. Turn out, press allowances towards Yoke. Turn under raw edge of Lower Yoke and baste it to the seam of Front/Yoke. Topstitch the seam of Front/Yoke, fastening Lower Yoke at the same time. Press. Repeat with another Front.
10. Sleeve Vent: pin Sleeve Vent Facing face side to the wrong side of Sleeve, along two sides of vent (mark the vent as per pattern). Cut Sleeve Vent between the seams. Turn under raw edge of Facing twice. Stitch Facing to Sleeve.
11. Sew Sleeve into open armhole, matching the notches. Press seam allowances towards armhole (not sleeve). Trim off seam allowances of armhole ONLY down to 0.5 cm. Fold Sleeve allowances around armhole allowances, baste together to the armhole. Topstitch at the armhole, fastening allowances at the same time.
12. Sew side and under-sleeve seams at one go, taking the pieces face-to-face. Press allowances towards Back. Trim off half of the allowance of Back and back area of Sleeve. Fold a wider allowance around a smaller one, baste to Back and Sleeve. Make a double-topstitching along side and under-sleeve seams, fastening allowances at the same time.
13. Assemble Collar with Stand. Reinforce one piece of Collar and one of Collar Stand with fusible interfacing. Line up pieces of Collar face-to-face and stitch together at outer sides. Turn out to the face side, press. Topstitch finished edges of Collar. Line up two pieces of Collar Stand face sides together, inserting Collar in between, so that reinforced Collar Stand matches reinforced Collar. Stitch together Collar Stands with inserted Collar. Turn out to the face side. Clip allowances at curves. Press. Turn under and press raw edges at bottom of Collar Stand. Insert neckline of garment between Collar Stands; baste together. Edgestitch Collar Stands with inserted neckline together. Edgestitch all around the Collar Stand. Topstitch Collar at 0.7 cm from finished edges.
14. Fold pleats at bottom of Sleeve as per pattern markings. Press to the side as directed in pattern. Baste together raw edges at bottom of Sleeve.
15. Line up reinforced Cuff with non-reinforced Cuff face-to-face. Stitch together at three outer edges. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out to the face side; press. Apply reinforced side of Cuff to the bottom edge of Sleeve, face-to-face, and stitch together. Turn down the Cuff; press seam allowances inside the Cuff. Turn under and press allowance of inside (non-reinforced) Cuff; baste to previous seam. Stitch in the ditch of Cuff seam to attach inside Cuff. Topstitch the Cuff all around at 0.7 cm. Topstitch the seam of attaching Cuff to Sleeve with additional decorative seam 1.5 cm wide.
15. Turn under bottom hem allowance of shirt, press. Turn under raw edge of hemming, press and topstitch along bottom hem.
16. Mark buttonholes at the left Front, Collar Stand and Cuffs as per pattern. Work buttonholes into the shirt. Sew buttons accordingly.