Home / Men / Raincoats / #6023 Raincoat

example - #6023 Raincoat preview - #6023 Raincoat

Difficulty: ***

Recommended fabrics: wool or wool blend fabrics for suits, lightweight fabrics for coats

Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.

When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.

Recommended fabrics: water-, wind-resistant fabrics typical for raincoats.

You will need: Water-resistant fabric; about 2.20 m of artificial fur; about 0.95 m of wool flannel fabric; about 0.95 m of lining fabric; 1.40 m of fusible interfacing; raglan shoulder pads; about 3.30 m of satin bias tape 1.5 cm wide; 6 buttons 3.0 cm in diameter; 4 buttons 1.5 cm in diameter; buckle for belt.

Cutting:

Shell:

Back - 2 pieces
Front - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Collar Stand - 1 piece
Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
Epaulette - 4 pieces
Sleeve Belt - 4 pieces
Belt 1 - 2 pieces
Belt 2 - 2 pieces
Lower Collar - 1 piece
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Front Tab - 2 pieces
Side Belt Loops - rectangle 20 ? 2 cm - 1 piece
Epaulette Loops - rectangle 17 ? 1.5 cm - 1 piece
Sleeve Belt Loops - rectangle 42 ? 2 cm - 1 piece
Belt Loop - rectangle 12 ? 2 cm - 1 piece

Artificial Fur:

Upper Collar - 1 piece
Collar Stand - 1 piece
Inside Back - 2 pieces
Inside Front - 2 pieces

Wool Flannel:

Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces

Lining:

Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces

Shorten shell pattern of Sleeve by 3 cm at bottom hem to cut out Sleeve lining.

Fusible interfacing: to the marked area of Fronts (see pattern), both sides of Belt, Epaulettes, allowances of back vent, half-width of each Pocket Welt; marked upper areas of Sleeves (see pattern); Sleeve Belts; Front Tab.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing: Fronts, two parts of Belt, two Epaulettes, back vent allowances, half-width of each Pocket Welt, upper areas of Sleeves, Sleeve Belts and one Front Tab piece.

2. Apply Sleeve pieces of Flannel to Sleeve pieces of lining wrong sides together, baste at raw edges and use as one piece in future processing.

3. Line up one reinforced and one non-reinforced parts of Epaulettes face-to-face; stitch all around the raw edges, leaving a small opening. Turn out; press. Edgestitch finished edges.

4. Assemble Front Tab. Line up one reinforced and one non-reinforced Tab face-to-face; stitch around the raw edges, leaving one short end open. Turn out; press. Edgestitch finished edges.

5. Apply Front Tab onto the face side of left Front (as per pattern). Stitch on. Trim off Tab allowances down to 0.5 cm. Press the Tab towards armhole and topstitch at 0.7 cm.

6. Assemble Welted Pockets at each Front.
Assemble Welts: fold Welt lengthwise face side inside, pin and sew Welt at short sides, turn out and press. Topstitch finished edges of Welt at 1 cm.
Turn under one long edge of Pocket Facing; place Pocket Facing onto upper Pocket Lining piece and topstitch at the turned edge.
Place Pocket Welt (directed downward) and Pocket Lining out of lining onto Front, face-to-face, matching raw edges of Welt and Lining with the line of pocket cut, pin along pocket entrance.
Pin Pocket Bag of shell at the other side of pocket entrance.
Stitch bags to Front, with 2 parallel seams 1.0 cm between them. Cut pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Don’t cut through the Welt and Lining.
Press seam allowances open. Turn Welt and Lining to inside and baste. At the wrong side, place lower Pocket Lining upward, onto Welt. From the face side, topstitch the seam of attaching the Welt, picking up Pocket Lining. Turn and press the Lining downward. Turn to the inside the small triangles at the ends of pocket entrance, and stitch them onto Linings between the two seams of pocket entrance. Trim Pocket Linings to fit each other, and sew them around to each other. At the face side, topstitch Pocket Welt at the short sides onto Front.

7. Sew center back seam. Press allowances to the left side. Topstitch seam at 1.0 cm.

8. Back vent: press to the wrong side left edge of the vent (left Back), sew to hem allowance along the hemline. Turn out to the face side; press and edgestitch left side of vent. At the right side of the vent (right Back), press extended Vent Facing to the wrong side, stitch at the edge of vent allowance. Fold the vent towards the left Back. Pin vent’s sides to match. Stitch on top of left Back to fix the vent, according to pattern marking.

9. Sew side seams. Press allowances towards Back, and topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm.

10. Fold Side Belt Loops piece lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at long edges; turn out, press, and edgestitch both edges. Cut the Belt Loops piece in half.

11. Turn under raw edges of Belt Loops; press and edgestitch. Mark placement of Loops at side seams. Apply Loops at marks. Bartack them onto garment.

12. Sew upper seam of Sleeve. Press allowances towards Front. Topstitch the seam at 1.0 cm.

13. Sew lower seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.

14. Sew Sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Press allowances towards Sleeve. Topstitch at 1.0 cm.

15. Assemble Sleeve Loop piece similar to Side Belt Loop. Cut into 6 equal parts. Turn under raw edges of Belt Loops and sew them to Sleeves as per markings.

16. Assemble Epaulette Loops in the same way as other Loops. Cut in half. Turn under raw edges and sew the Loops onto shoulders as per pattern markings.

17. Turn under and press bottom hem allowance of Sleeves. Hand-sew bottom hem with invisible stitches.

18. Finish bottom edge of raincoat with bias tape. For that purpose, place the bias tape face side onto face side of Waistband, matching raw edges, and stitch at 1/4 of tape’s width. Turn bias around the raw egde, turn under the raw edge (1/4 of tape’s width), and stitch in the ditch of previous seam.

19. Sew Front Facing to the lining.

20. Assemble lining similar to shell. Skip topstitching the seams.

21. Finish bottom edge of lining with bias tape similar to shell (see pt.18).

22. Sew Collar Stand of shell to the Lower Collar, matching the notches, and press allowances open.

23. Sew Upper Collar to the Collar Stand of fur, matching the notches.

24. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of garment, face sides inside, matching the notches with shoulder seams.

25. Sew Upper Collar to the lining.

26. Line up lining+Upper Collar with garment of shell, face-to-face. Match raw edges at Collar and front edges. Press allowances of Collar and lapels towards Lower Collar and Front. Staystitch the seam. At the wrong side of garment, sew neckline allowance of Upper Collar to the neckline of garment.

27. Turn the garment out to the face side, press finished edges.

28. Turn under and press hem allowance of raincoat. Topstitch the bottom next to biased edge.

29. Turn under raw edges of right back vent of shell and lining. Hand-sew edges together with invisible stitches. Clip allowance in corner of lining (at top of left vent) and hand-sew lining to shell with invisible stitches.

30. Topstitch front edges, from lapels down to bottom.

31. Line up pieces of Sleeve Belt face-to-face, stitch together at one short and two long edges, making a chevron-shaped end. Turn out, press and topstitch finished edges.

32. Mark and work buttonholes into Sleeve Belts.

33. Pull Sleeve Belt through the buckle at the open end of Sleeve Belt.

34. Pull Sleeve Belts through Sleeve Loops and close with the buckle.

35. Turn under bottom hem allowance of Sleeve lining. Sew lining to the hem of shell.

36. Sew Belt 1 and Belt 2 pieces together at center back seam. Press allowances open. Fold the Belt lengthwise in half, face side inside, topstitch along raw edges, leaving an opening for turning out. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out the Belt; press and topstitch all around.

37. Turn under raw edges of Belt Loop; press and edgestitch. Sew short ends of Loop together to form a ring. Insert Belt through the Belt Loop. Bartack the Loop next to buckle.

38. Mark placement of buttonholes at Front Tab, inside the right back vent (see picture), left Front and one buttonhole at the lapel of right Front. Refer to pattern for buttonholes’ placement.

39. Sew buttons accordingly.



Free sewing patterns (PDF) available for download

Please review Our Sizing Charts

No Patterns Available for Download

blog comments powered by Disqus