Recommended fabrics: water-, wind-resistant fabrics typical for raincoats.
You will need: Water-resistant fabric; lining fabric; fusible interfacing; raglan shoulder pads; about 3.5 m of satin bias tape 1.5 cm (5/8") wide; 6 buttons 3.0 cm (1-3/16") in diameter; 2 buttons 1.5 cm (5/8") in diameter; buckle for belt.
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
Back - 2 pieces
Front - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Turn-out Cuff - 2 pieces
Collar Stand - 2 pieces
Pocket Welt - 2 pieces
Belt 1 - 2 pieces
Belt 2 - 2 pieces
Collar - 2 pieces
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Front Tab - 2 pieces
Side Belt Loops - rectangle 20 ? 2 cm (8"x3/4") - 1 piece
Belt Loop - rectangle 12 ? 2 cm (4-3/4"x 3/4") - 1 piece
Back - 1 piece
Front - 2 pieces, with Front Facing area excluded
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces, shortened at bottom by 3 cm (1-3/16")
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces, shortened at bottom by 3 cm (1-3/16")
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Turn-out Cuff – 2 pieces
Shorten assembled lining at bottom hem by 3 cm (1-3/16").
Front (see pattern for the reinforcement area) Belt 1, Belt 2, allowances of Back vent; half-width of Pocket Welt, Front Tab.
1. Reinforce with fusible interfacing: Front (see pattern for the reinforcement area), Belt 1, Belt 2, allowances of Back vent; half-width (outer side) of Pocket Welts, Front Tab (1 outer part only).
2. Line up reinforced and non-reinforced pieces of Front Tab face-to-face, stitch at all sides except one short end; turn out; press, and topstitch at finished edges.
3. Apply Front Tab onto the face side of left Front (as per pattern). Stitch on. Trim off Tab allowances down to 0.5 cm (3/16"). Press the Tab towards armhole and topstitch at 0.7 cm (1/4").
4. Assemble Welted Pockets at each Front.
Assemble Welts: fold Welt lengthwise face side inside, pin and sew Welt at short sides, turn out and press. Topstitch finished edges of Welt at 1 cm (3/8").
Turn under one long edge of Pocket Facing; place Pocket Facing onto upper Pocket Lining piece and topstitch at the turned edge.
Place Pocket Welt (directed downward) and Pocket Lining out of lining onto Front, face-to-face, matching raw edges of Welt and Lining with the line of pocket cut, pin along pocket entrance.
Pin Pocket Bag of shell at the other side of pocket entrance.
Stitch bags to Front, with 2 parallel seams 1.0 cm (3/8") between them. Cut pocket entrance, in corners cut diagonally. Don’t cut through the Welt and Lining.
Press seam allowances open. Turn Welt and Lining to inside and baste. At the wrong side, place lower Pocket Lining upward, onto Welt. From the face side, topstitch the seam of attaching the Welt, picking up Pocket Lining. Turn and press the Lining downward.
Turn to the inside the small triangles at the ends of pocket entrance, and stitch them onto Linings between the two seams of pocket entrance. Trim Pocket Linings to fit each other, and sew them around to each other. At the face side, topstitch Pocket Welt at the short sides onto Front.
5. Sew center back seam. Press allowances to the left side. Topstitch at 1.0 cm (3/8") from the seam.
6. Back vent: press to the wrong side left edge of the vent (left Back), sew to hem allowance along the hemline. Turn out to the face side; press and edgestitch left side of vent.
At the right side of the vent (right Back), press extended Vent Facing to the wrong side, stitch at the edge of vent allowance. Fold the vent towards the left Back. Pin vent’s sides to match. Stitch on top of left Back to fix the vent, according to pattern marking.
7. Sew side seams. Press allowances towards Back, and topstitch the seam at 0.5 cm (3/16").
8. Fold Side Belt Loops piece lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at long edges; turn out, press, and edgestitch both edges. Cut the Belt Loops piece in half.
9. Turn under raw edges of Belt Loops; press and edgestitch. Mark placement of Loops at side seams. Apply Loops at marks. Bartack them onto garment.
10. Sew upper seam of Sleeve. Press allowances towards Front. Topstitch the seam at 1.0 cm (3/8").
11. Sew lower seam of Sleeve. Press allowances open.
12. Sew Sleeve into armhole, matching the notches. Press allowances towards Sleeve. Topstitch at 1.0 cm (3/8").
13. Fold Cuff piece of shell fabric to match short ends, face side inside. Stitch along the short ends to form a ring. Press seam allowances open. Repeat with Cuff pieces of lining fabric.
Place lining Cuff into shell Cuff, face-to-face, matching pieces at the upper edge, pin and stitch along the upper edge. Press open, turn out and topstitch Cuffs at 1.0 cm (3/8").
Sew hem edge of lining Cuff piece to Sleeve. Sew Cuff of shell to the Sleeve hem. Hand-sew Turn-out Cuff to upper and lower Sleeve seams with invisible stitches.
14. Finish bottom edge of raincoat with bias tape. For that purpose, place the bias tape face side onto face side of Waistband, matching raw edges, and stitch at 1/4 of tape’s width. Turn bias around the raw egde, turn under the raw edge (1/4 of tape’s width), and stitch in the ditch of previous seam.
15. Sew Front Facing to the lining.
16. Assemble lining similar to shell. Skip topstitching the seams.
16. Finish bottom edge of lining with bias tape similar to pt.14.
17. Sew Collar Stand of shell to the Lower Collar, matching the notches, and press allowances open.
18. Sew Upper Collar to Collar Stand, matching the notches. Press seam open.
19. Sew Lower Collar into neckline of garment, taking the pieces face-to-face and matching notches at Collar with shoulder seams.
20. Sew Upper Collar to lining.
21. Line up lining+Upper Collar with garment of shell, face-to-face. Match raw edges at Collar and front edges. Press allowances of Collar and lapels towards Lower Collar and Front. Staystitch the seam. At the wrong side of garment, sew neckline allowance of Upper Collar to the neckline of garment.
22. Turn the garment out to the face side, press finished edges.
23. Turn under and press hem allowance of raincoat. Topstitch the bottom next to biased edge.
24. Turn under raw edges of right back vent of shell and lining. Hand-sew edges together with invisible stitches. Clip allowance in corner of lining (at top of left vent) and hand-sew lining to shell with invisible stitches.
25. Edgestitch front edges, from lapels down to bottom.
26. Turn under bottom hem allowance of Sleeve lining. Sew lining to hem of Sleeves (shell).
27. Sew Belt 1 and Belt 2 pieces together at center back seam. Press allowances open. Fold the Belt lengthwise in half, face side inside, topstitch along raw edges, leaving an opening for turning out. Clip allowances in corners. Turn out the Belt; press and topstitch all around.
28. Turn under raw edges of Belt Loop; press and edgestitch. Sew short ends of Loop together to form a ring. Insert Belt throught the Belt Loop. Bartack the Loop next to buckle.
29. Mark placement of buttonholes at Front Tab, inside the right back vent (see picture), left Front and one buttonhole at the lapel of right Front. Refer to pattern for buttonholes’ placement.
30. Sew buttons accordingly.