Recommended fabrics: medium-weight wool or wool blends, suiting.
You will need: Suiting fabric; calico cotton dyed-to-match; lining fabric dyed-to-match; fusible interfacing; bias tape of lining fabric dyed-to-match; zipper tape for front closure; 4 buttons 1.5 cm (5/8’) in diameter.
Back Part - 2 pieces
Front Part - 2 pieces
Right Closure Facing - 2 pieces
Waistband - 2 pieces
Front Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
Back Pocket Facing - rectangle 18 x 5 cm (7-1/8’’x2’’) - 2 pieces
Front Pocket Lip - rectangle 16.5 ? 5 cm (6-¼’’x 2’’) - 2 pieces
Back Pocket Lip - rectangle 13.5 ? 5 cm (5-3/8’’ x 2’’) - 2 pieces
Left Closure Facing - 1 piece
Wide Belt Loops - rectangle 6.5 ? 17 cm (2-¼’’x6 ¾’’) - 1 piece
Narrow Belt Loops - rectangle 4.5 ? 55 cm (1-3/4’’x 22’’) - 1 piece
Lining of Front Part - 2 pieces
Front Pocket Bags - 2 pieces with folds
Back Pocket Bags - 2 pieces with folds
Fusible interfacing: waistband, Pocket Lips, Left Closure Facing.
1. Reinforce waistband, Pocket Lips, Left Closure Facing with fusible interfacing.
2. Sew darts. Press allowances towards center back.
3. Front Pocket:
Apply Front Pocket Facing (wrong side) onto Front Pocket Bag of cotton calico (face side), matching the notches. Turn under raw edge of Facing and edgestitch it to Pocket Bag. Baste together all raw edges of Facing and Pocket Bag.
Fold each Front Pocket Lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press.
Pin the Front Pocket Lip to the face side of Front Part, according to marking. Place Pocket Bag of calico (side without Facing stitched on) on top of Lip, pin or baste. Stitch Lip and Pocket Bag to Front Part at 1 cm (3/8'') off the marking for pocket entrance.
Cut Front Part at the marking for pocket entrance; in corners cut diagonally. Turn Pocket Bag into the wrong side of garment. Flatten the Pocket Lip. Sew small triangles in corners and ends of Lip to the Pocket Bag.
Fold Pocket Bag in half as per pattern, face side inside, and press. Stitch together at bottom edges and serge allowances. From the face side, edgestitch top edge and pocket entrance of Front Pocket, attaching Pocket Bag.
Baste Front Pocket Bag to the waistline allowance of Front Part.
4. Mark and assemble Back Pocket similar to Front Pockets. Don’t forget to make a buttonhole during processing of Back Pocket.
5. Make a pleat at Front Part waistline, according to pattern marking. Stitch down the pleat. Press as directed in pattern. Baste at waistline.
Repeat the above operations with pleat at Front Part lining. Serge bottom edge of Front Part lining.
6. Apply Lining to Front Part, wrong sides together, and baste together at all raw edges.
7. Sew side seams and inseams. Serge allowances.
8. Sew crotch seam of Front Parts up to the mark for front closure. Serge seam allowances separately.
9. Line up 2 pieces of Right Closure Facing, face-to-face, stitch together at 2 outer edges (outer side and bottom edge). Turn out and press.
10. Assemble zipper tape unit.
Apply Left Closure Facing onto left Front Part at closure area, face-to-face, and stitch together at front edge.
Press seam allowances towards Left Closure Facing. Edgestitch this seam. Turn under and press Left Closure Facing to the wrong side of garment.
Pin zipper tape to the front edge of right Front Part, taking raw edges together. Place Right Closure Facing on top, matching raw edges at front edge. Stitch all layers together at front edge. Serge seam allowances. Open the parts so that Right Front Part is laid at the left, while zipper and Right Closure Facing are laid at right. Edgestitch zipper and Facing along the previous seam.
Stitch another side of zipper to the loose side edge of Left Closure Facing. Serge seam allowance of Left Facing. Mark topstitching line at left Front. Topstitch the left Front, fastening Left Closure Facing at the same time.
At the wrong side, bartack together the bottom ends of right and left closure facings.
11. Fold Wide Belt Loops piece lengthwise in half, face side inside, stitch at long edge. Turn out and press, so that the seam goes in the middle of a Loop. Cut piece in half.
12. Assemble Narrow Belt Loops piece in the same manner; cut into six pieces.
13. Mark Loops placement at waistline. Pin all the loops according to markings, to the waistling. Loops must be directed from the waist down, face sides towards face side of garment. Staystitch the loops to the waistline.
14. Cut extra fabric from the front end of left half of Waistband, if necessary, leaving an allowance of 1 cm (3/8’’).
Finish inside bottom edge of each half of Waistband with bias tape. For that purpose, place the bias tape face side onto face side of Waistband, matching raw edges, and stitch at ¼ of tape’s width. Turn bias around the raw egde, turn under the raw edge (1/4 of tape’s width), and stitch in the ditch of previous seam.
15. Fold each half of Waistband lengthwise in half at the marking line, and stitch down short front ends. Clip allowances in corners, turn out and press the front ends of each Waistband.
16. Sew raw edges of each Waistband to the waistline of garment, matching notches with side seams. Press allowances towards Waistband.
17. Stitch crotch seam of back and Waistband. Press allowances open. Serge allowances separately for each side.
18. Press Waistband lengthwise. Sew the loose edge of Waistband (finished with bias) to the garment. You can either stitch in the ditch of waistband seam, or use invisible hand-stitches.
19. Press all Loops upward. Turn under raw edge of each Loop, and bartack onto top edge of Waistband.
20. Turn under hem allowance of pants’ bottom. Serge raw bottom edges. Hand-stitch serged edge to pants with invisible seam.
21. Mark and work buttonhole into Waistband. Sew buttons accordingly.