Recomended fabrics: heavyweight cotton fabrics; jean fabrics.
You will need: shell fabric; cotton fabric for pocket bags; fusible interfacing; lining; zipper for front closure; button 2.2 cm (7/8'') in diameter; 2 buttons 1.0 cm (3/8'') in diameter.
Back Part - 2 pieces
Front Part - 2 pieces
Closure Facing - 1 piece
Back Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Side Part - 2 pieces
Back Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
Belt Loops - 1 piece
Right Waistband - 1 piece
Left Waistband - 1 piece
Back Pocket Lip - 4 pieces
White cotton fabric:
Back Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Front Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Front Part Lining - 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: outer half-width of Waistband.
Note: Make all topstitchings with white threads.
1. Reinforce outer half along the Waistband with fusible interfacing.
2. Sew dart at Front Part; press towards center front. Baste raw edges at waistline.
3. Apply Front Pocket Facing (wrong side) onto Front Pocket Bag of cotton calico (face side), matching the notches. Turn under raw edge of Facing and edgestitch it to Pocket Bag. Baste together all raw edges of Facing and Pocket Bag.
Apply Front Pocket Bag onto garment face-to-face and stitch together at pocket entrance. Turn out to the face side; press and double-topstitch.
Fold Front Pocket Bag at fold line as per pattern; press. Sew Pocket Bags at bottom edge. Staystitch Front Pocket Bags to waistline allowances.
4. Sew darts of Back Parts. Press darts towards center back.
5. Line up Flap parts face-to-face, sew together at outer edges; turn out, press. Edgestitch the Flap; topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16'') from the edge (double-topstitch).
6. Apply Back Pocket Facing wrong side onto face side of Back Pocket Bag as per marking. Turn under raw edge and edgestitch Facing onto Bag. Baste Facing to Pocket Bag at raw edges.
Assemble Back Pocket with 2 Lips. Fold each Back Pocket Lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press.
Mark back pocket entrance at the face side of Back Part. Pin 2 Pocket Lips along the pocket entrance, raw edges meeting at pocket entrance line.
Place Back Pocket Bag of cotton fabric on top of lower Lip. Place Flap, directed upward, on top of upper Lip. Line up raw edges at pocket entrance line. Baste. Stitch Lips at both sides from pocket entrance line, 0.5 cm (3/16'') off the line (1.0 cm (3/8'') between the parallel stitchings).
Cut fabric between the stitchings; in corners cut diagonally. Pull Pocket Bag through the opening into the wrong side. Form Lips of Pocket. Fold Pocket Bag in half and stitch top raw edge to the allowance of upper Lip. Line up and stitch together raw edges of Pocket Bags at sides.
From the wrong side, stitch ends of Lips onto small triangles at the ends of pocket.
7. Fold and baste a pleat at lining.
8. Serge bottom edges of lining of Fronts.
9. Apply Lining to Front Part, wrong sides together, and baste together at all raw edges.
10. Sew side seams; serge allowances.
11. Sew crotch seams of Backs and Fronts (up to the notch for front closure). Serge allowances; press them to the left side.
12.Assemble zipper closure unit.
Line up 2 pieces of Right Closure Facing, face-to-face, stitch together at 2 outer edges (outer side and bottom edge). Turn out and press.
Apply Left Closure Facing onto left Front Part at closure area, face-to-face, and stitch together at front edge. Press seam allowances towards Left Closure Facing. Edgestitch this seam. Turn under and press Left Closure Facing to the wrong side of garment.
Pin zipper tape to the front edge of right Front Part, taking raw edges together.
Place Right Closure Facing on top, matching raw edges at front edge. Stitch all layers together at front edge. Serge seam allowances. Open the parts so that Right Front Part is laid at the left, while zipper and Right Closure Facing are laid at right. Edgestitch zipper and Facing along the previous seam.
Stitch another side of zipper to the loose side edge of Left Closure Facing. Serge seam allowance of Left Facing. Mark topstitching line at left Front. At the wrong side, bartack together the bottom ends of right and left closure facings.
Topstitch the left Front with a double-topstitching, fastening Left Closure Facing at the same time. Edgestitch front edge at 0.7 cm (1/4'').
13. Sew inseams; serge allowances.
14. Assemble Waistband.
Sew parts of Waistband together. Fold the Waistband lengthwise in half at the marking line, and stitch down short front ends. Clip allowances in corners, turn out and press the front ends of Waistband.
Apply Waistband, directed downward, with its reinforced half, onto the waistline of garment. Stitch waist seam. Press allowances inside the Waistband.
Turn the Waistband up. Turn under raw edge at back side of Waistband; baste. Stitch in the ditch of Waistband seam to fasten back side of Waistband to the garment. Edgestitch all around the Waistband perimeter.
15. Serge long edges of Belt Loop piece. Turn under serged edges and double-topstitch them. Cut Belt Loop unit into 6 equal parts.
16. Turn under raw edges of each Loop. Bartack the Loops onto Waistband as per pattern markings.
17. Turn under hem allowance of pants’ bottom. Serge raw bottom edges. Topstitch bottom hems.
18. Mark and work buttonhole into left side of Waistband. Sew button or install a jeans snap.