Recommended fabrics: heavyweight cotton fabrics; jean fabric.
You will need: cotton fabric for shell; white cotton for pocket bags; zipper for front closure; button 2.2 cm (7/8") in diameter.
Back Part - 2 pieces
Front Part - 2 pieces
Front Closure Facing - 2 pieces
Back Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Patch Pocket Flap - 4 pieces
Side Part - 2 pieces
Back Pocket Facing - 2 pieces
Patch Pocket - 2 pieces
Belt Loops - 1 piece
Right Waistband - 1 piece
Left Waistband - 1 piece
Back Pocket Lip - 4 pieces
White cotton for lining:
Back Part Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Front Part Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Fusible interfacing: half-width (outer half) of waistband pieces.
NOTE: All topstitchings should be done with white thread.
1. Reinforce half width of each waistband piece with fusible interfacing, at the wrong side of fabric.
2. Mark a dart at Back Part; stitch it; press allowances towards center back. Baste raw edges at waistline.
3. Apply Side Part wrong side onto face side of Pocket Bag as per marking (refer to pattern); turn under bottom raw edge of Side Part and edgestitch to the Bag. Baste together Side Part and Pocket Bag at raw edges.
4. Apply Pocket Bag onto garment face-to-face and stitch at the pocket entrance edge. Turn out and press pocket entrance edge. Double-topstitch at the edge.
5. Fold Pocket Bag according to marking, face side inside, and stitch together bottom edges. Baste Pocket Bag to waistline allowance of garment.
6. Sew dart of Back Part. Press dart to the center.
7. Line up Flap pieces face-to-face, stitch around three outer sides. Turn out, press, and double-topstitch (at the edge, and 0.5 cm (3/16") apart).
8. Apply Back Pocket Facing wrong side onto face side of Back Pocket Bag; turn under bottom raw edge, and edgestitch Facing to the Bag. Baste together raw edges of Facing and Pocket Bag.
9. Assemble Back Pocket with Lips and Flap.
Fold each Back Pocket Lip lengthwise in half, wrong side inside, and press.
Mark back pocket entrance at the face side of Back Part.
Pin 2 Pocket Lips along the pocket entrance, raw edges meeting at pocket entrance line.
Place Back Pocket Bag of cotton fabric on top of lower Lip.
Place Flap, directed upward, on top of upper Lip. Line up raw edges at pocket entrance line. Baste. Stitch Lips at both sides from pocket entrance line, 0.5 cm (3/16") off the line (1.0 cm (3/8") between the parallel stitchings).
Cut fabric between the stitchings; in corners cut diagonally.
Pull Pocket Bag through the opening into the wrong side. Form Lips of Pocket. Fold Pocket Bag in half and stitch top raw edge to the allowance of upper Lip. Line up and stitch together raw edges of Pocket Bags at sides.
From the wrong side, stitch ends of Lips onto small triangles at the ends of pocket.
null10. Sew side seams. Serge allowances.
11. Fold pleats at patch pocket according to pattern; press to the sides as directed in pattern. Edgestitch the folds at 0.3 cm (1/8").
12. Turn under top allowances of Pocket, press. Turn under raw edge; topstitch at the top of Pocket.
13. Turn under and press raw edges at sides and bottom of Patch Pocket. Mark Patch Pocket placement. Apply Patch Pocket at markings and double-topstitch it onto the garment.
14. Apply Patch Pocket Flap, directed upward, at the face side of pants as per marks, and topstitch. Turn the Flap down, press and double-topstitch.
15. Sew crotch seam of Back Parts and Front Parts (up to the notch for zipper closure). Serge allowances; press them to the left side.
16. Assemble zipper closure unit.
Apply Left Closure Facing onto left Front Part at closure area, face-to-face, and stitch together at front edge. Press seam allowances towards Left Closure Facing. Edgestitch this seam. Turn under and press Left Closure Facing to the wrong side of garment.
Pin zipper tape to the front edge of right Front Part, taking raw edges together.
Place Right Closure Facing on top, matching raw edges at front edge. Stitch all layers together at front edge.
Serge seam allowances. Open the parts so that Right Front Part is laid at the left, while zipper and Right Closure Facing are laid at right. Edgestitch zipper and Facing along the previous seam.
Stitch another side of zipper to the loose side edge of Left Closure Facing. Serge seam allowance of Left Facing. Mark topstitching line at left Front.
At the wrong side, bartack together the bottom ends of right and left closure facings.
Topstitch the left Front with a double-topstitching, fastening Left Closure Facing at the same time. Edgestitch front edge at 0.7 cm (1/4").
17. Sew inseams; serge allowances.
18. Assemble Waistband.
Sew parts of Waistband together. Fold the Waistband lengthwise in half at the marking line, and stitch down short front ends. Clip allowances in corners, turn out and press the front ends of Waistband.
Apply Waistband, directed downward, with its reinforced half, onto the waistline of garment. Stitch waist seam. Press allowances inside the Waistband.
Turn the Waistband up. Turn under raw edge at back side of Waistband; baste. Stitch in the ditch of Waistband seam to fasten back side of Waistband to the garment. Edgestitch all around the Waistband perimeter.
19. Serge long edges of Belt Loop piece. Turn under serged edges and double-topstitch them. Cut Belt Loop unit into 6 equal parts.
20. Turn under raw edges of each Loop. Bartack the Loops onto Waistband as per pattern markings.
21. Turn under hem allowance of pants’ bottom. Serge raw bottom edges. Topstitch bottom hems.
22. Mark and work buttonhole into left side of Waistband. Sew button or install a jeans snap.