Recommended fabrics: wool or wool-blend suit fabrics
Attention! Fabric consumption varies depending on the size of garment. First of all, print out paper patterns and lay them out at the width of fabric/ knit you plan to use, to see how much fabric you will need.
When sewing the garment, pay attention to notches- they must coincide.
You will need: wool fabric for suits; lining; canvas; fusible interfacing; polyfill warmer; 3 buttons 17 mm (5/8”-6/8”) in diameter; 8 buttons 12 mm (1/2”) in diameter; shoulder pads.
Back - 2 pieces
Front - 2 pieces
Side - 2 pieces
Front Sleeve - 2 pieces
Back Sleeve - 2 pieces
Pocket Flap - 2 pieces
Pocket Welt - 1 piece
Pocket Bag - 2 pieces
Upper Collar - 1 piece
Collar Stand - 1 piece
Lower Collar - 2 pieces
Front Facing - 2 pieces
Small Pocket Bag - 1 piece
Pocket Facing - rectangle 19 ? 3 cm (8” x 1-1/8”) - 4 pieces
For LINING use following pieces of shell:
Back, adding 2 cm at center back for a pleat for ease;
Front – eliminating Front Facing area;
Both sleeve pieces – without allowances for sleeve vent;
Side; Pocket Flap; Pocket Bags; Small Pocket Bag – without changes;
Shorten bottom hem of the jacket and sleeves for 2 cm (6/8").
Reinforce with fusible interfacing: Upper and Lower Collars, Collar Stand, Fronts, Sides, Pocket Flaps, Pocket Facings, bottom hem of sportcoat and bottom of sleeves, half-width of Pocket Welt, allowance for back vent at left back piece.
Reinforce with canvas upper part of Front from lapel marking to the dotted line.
NOTE: If you sew sportcoat using a plaid fabric, pin the paper pieces onto fabric paying attention to matching of the plaids.
One more note: As you sew the seams of sportcoat, press all seam allowances open.
1. Reinforce all the pieces that need reinforcement (see above).
2. Cut pocket opening at each Front, sew darts. Cut darts’ allowances open and press them to the sides. Baste together raw edges of pocket opening.
3. Assemble welted pocket at the left chest. Fold Pocket Welt lengthwise in half, face side inside, and stitch at the short ends; turn out and press. Pin the welt, directed downwards, to the face side of chest as per the pattern. Place Pocket Bag of lining on top of Pocket Welt; pin Pocket Bag of shell fabric at the other side of pocket opening. Sew both pocket bags and welt along the opening, with gauge (distance between the two seams) 5 mm (3/16").
Cut the pocket opening between the seams; in corners cut diagonally. Turn pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Topstitch the seam allowance of pocket welt onto corresponding pocket bag. Align both pocket bags, trim and sew around. At the face side, topstitch short ends of pocket welt onto the chest.
4. Sew vertical seam of each Front.
5. Assemble Flaps. Place one piece of Flap of shell face-to-face with a Flap of lining, sew around at three sides, turn out and press. Assemble Frame Pocket with Flap at each front. Fold each Pocket Facing in half lengthwise, face side outside, and press. Pin two pocket facings, raw ends facing each other, at the pocket opening at the face side of garment.
Place pocket bag of lining onto lower facing, baste. Place pocket bag of shell fabric onto upper facing, inserting in between a Flap directed upwards, baste. Sew both pocket bags, facings and flap along the opening, with gauge (distance between the two seams) 5 mm. Cut the pocket opening between the seams; in corners cut diagonally. Turn pocket bags to the wrong side through the opening. Form 2 lips 1 cm (3/8") wide each from the facings. Topstitch with a zigzag seam the seam allowances of pocket facings onto pocket bags. Align both pocket bags, trim and sew around. At the wrong side, stitch together small triangles and ends of pocket facings.
6. Sew center back seam down to the notch of back vent, as well as upper edges of vent.
7. Sew shoulder seams, making slight shirring (and pressing it down with steam) at shoulder of back to make edges even.
8. Hand-sew canvas piece to the wrong side of each Front, according to pattern marking.
9. Sew vertical seams of Back.
10. Sew center back seam of Lower Collar. Press seam allowances open. Sew lower Collar into neckline of garment, matching notches with shoulder seams. Sew Upper Collar to the Front Facings.
11. Place Front Facings & Upper Collar onto the garment, face-to-face, sew at outer edge of Collar and front edges of Fronts. Turn out, press. Sew lower edge of Upper Collar to the neckline of Back.
12. Assemble Sleeves: sew elbow seam of Front Sleeve and Back Sleeve down to the notch of sleeve vent (Front Sleeve part must be slightly shirred at the elbow edge and steam-pressed, to match Back Sleeve). Press seam allowances open and turn the sleeve to the face side. Turn to the face side allowances of the vent and bottom hem allowance. Sew corners diagonally, trim excess fabric down to 1 cm (3/8") and press allowances open. Turn under (to the wrong side) and press allowances of vent and sleeve hem. Hand-sew allowances and hem.
13. Sew Sleeves into armholes. Gather Sleeve head with small basting stitches between the notches. Pull the thread to match length of sleeve head with a length of armhole. Spray the sleeve head with water and press gathers with a tip of hot iron. Sew front sleeve seam and press allowances open. Pin sleeve to the garment, matching the notches, and sew it into armhole, stitching at the Sleeve side (not the armhole side). Cut polyfill swatch in half and sew to the wrong side of each sleeve head.
14. Turn to the face side allowance of back vent of left Back. Stitch down at the hemline. Turn to the face side hem allowance of right Back. Stitch at the edge of vent allowance. Turn out and press. Fold the back vent towards left side, press.
15. Turn under and press hem allowance of the garment. Hand-sew hem with invisible stitches. Finish Sleeves’ hem in a similar manner.
16. Sew shoulder pads.
17. Assemble lining of garment. Fold a pleat at center back of lining, for ease of fitting, and pin the pleat at neckline and several inches above bottom hem. Sew together lining parts similar to the shell, leaving open an area 20 cm (8") of elbow seam of one of the sleeves.
18. Put lining into shell face sides together, matching at center back and shoulder seams. Sew together shell and lining at inside edges of Front Facings and neckline. Create a horizontal pleat at bottom, for ease of fitting, and sew lining to the hem allowance of shell. Sew lining to the fold of right back vent and to the edge of left back vent. Turn the garment to the face side through the open area of a sleeve. Stitch down that open area of sleeve.
18. Sew buttonholes to the left Front as marked in the pattern; sew buttons to the right Front.
19. Sew buttonholes at sleeves, but don’t cut them through. Sew buttons on top of the sleeve buttonholes through all the layers of sleeve.